charging sys.

Whats the pink and blue circles represent? I highlited the ground path for my specific year/model..looks simple enough.
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pink is the relay which is energized by the alternator so the light gets turned on only when the engine fires.

I think the "sender" is the thing built into the speedo which tells the self cancelling to switch off the indicators.
 
Thanks drewpy, so...how would one test the functionality of this relay, Im prtty sure its the one under the gas tank labeled HRI-43 2H7-10 12V807
 
Ok im going to air the details out as I just found out something else... So, my bike was parked and running perfectly fine 2 yrs ago..got it running this spring to find that my battery was shot, replaced and now have a good battery holding a charge...but my bike would die after 15min of riding(battery depleted) so I replaced the vreg after some poor multimeter skills were demonstrated(i believe it was fine), in anycase bike still wont charge when running and throttle applird..tested alt/field coil/rectif. All are good according to manual..did drews vreg bypass and no reaction(129 jumper to grn wire of field coil with bike running..no charging still..then did willies vreg bypass which entails jumping 12v from batt to grn field coil and neg battery to blk field coil and finally got the bike to charge..in the meantime my headlight starting working as soon as I connected grn?? So im thinking there must be some correlation between headlight not working when bike isnt charging.. Edit. Just started bike and tested yellow wire from alt...3v when @2k rpm.. Hmmm so proceed to try the willie-way again and notice it popped my turnsignal fuse instantly...so are any of you seeing this with you forced ground/12v to field coil set up?
 
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your headlight won't work if your not charging as the relay needs power from the alternator to activate it!
 
Im picking up what your putting down Drewpy:D.. So..If i understand the wiring correctly, the alt needs 12v from the batt to energize the field coil, then rotor/stator spins upon starting to now work in tandem with the field coil to produce AC volts...the rectifier then converts it to DC volts. then the Vreg supplies the bike with the desired amount of volts based on what "draws" you are inducing ie: lights,horn,signals...Accurate?
 
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...and would it be accurate to say that upon turning the key to the on position on my 79xs400 2-f (economy/kick only) I should positively have powr @ the _____ (green?) colored wire goung into the field coil?
 
Im picking up what your putting down Drewpy:D.. So..If i understand the wiring correctly, the alt needs 12v from the batt to energize the field coil, then rotor/stator spins upon starting to now work in tandem with the field coil to produce AC volts...the rectifier then converts it to DC volts. then the Vreg supplies the bike with the desired amount of volts based on what "draws" you are inducing ie: lights,horn,signals...Accurate?

not quite.

the Vreg supplies the field coil with controlled volts. that output determines the output of the alternator.

that is why a duff battery doesn't produce the voltage output and acts like a Vreg in a round-a-bout way.

I would say the green should have power to the field coil. there are a few wiring diagrams which change colour.

I also think that the Vreg regulates the earth (ground) and not positive. I did work it out once but I've had a beer and a bit fuzzy :D
 
Dumb question...If I bug a known good 12V car battery to my bike will that hurt anything..I realize 12V is 12V..but its the amps I'm inquiring about:)
(just testing my "new" never run (bike hasnt been worthy since I put it in) NAPA battery from a year ago..maybe its just plain bad..who knows)
 
a year in motorcycle batteries can be its life span!

It all depends if you maintain it with an optimate type charger

A case of use it or lose it


not too sure on the car battery, depends on how much the alternator needs to try and put the power back into the car battery I suppose
 
a year in motorcycle batteries can be its life span!

It all depends if you maintain it with an optimate type charger

A case of use it or lose it


not too sure on the car battery, depends on how much the alternator needs to try and put the power back into the car battery I suppose

1YEAR??? Damn I got lucky with the prev. batt then..6 years from that baby:D Im going to try it for shits n giggles..whats the worse thing that could happen..a non-ride-able bike..lol
 
ok Drewpy...I have news that will make you want to: A) Punch me in the head for not noticing before or B) Offer some insight because you know more than I do..lol
Just tried the tandem battery idea..no change..figured I see if the added battery excited the field coil and made a magnet while is was at it...There was a magnet, a very weak, sad excuse for a magnet, had to hold my .001" feeler an 1/8th inch away to get it to stick to one of the center allen head bolts...I then unclipped my positive jumper from "assistant" battery to see if this is what had made the difference...nope, the same week magnet was still present..so, in closing..I do actually have an excited field coil, just not very excited, more like semi-flacid..like seeing your aunts boob fall out of her bikini at the family picnic when you were 14..lol
 
did you get any output into the battery from the alternator?

yours is not the usual method of determining if your getting volts back.

by all means excite the field coil separately and run the engine to see how many volts you get at the motorcycle battery
 
did you get any output into the battery from the alternator?

yours is not the usual method of determining if your getting volts back.

by all means excite the field coil separately and run the engine to see how many volts you get at the motorcycle battery

I didnt necessarily excite it seperately..as stated above I hooked the car battery in parallel with the motorcycle battery, but even when disc. i still had a very weak excited field coil, and when rev'd to 4 or 5k my volts rose only by .2 or less.
 
Unplug the plug to the feild coil. Use jumper wires to send battery voltage through the feild coil. Keep your meter hooked to the bike battery so you can watch for vlotage changes. Use a second battery, you car battery is a good option.
On using a bigger battery it won't hurt anything. A device only draws what it needs from a battery. Now if you try jump starting a bike from your car battery while the car is running can send a power surge through your bikes electrics and cause problems.
Leo
 
Done! 15.35v when at 3k rpms... Didnt pop the turn signal fuse this time.. Everytime I run jumpers to my bike battery from field coil it pops the turn signal fuse....hmmmm
Edit: just jumped green to black on plug that supposed to hook to vreg..essentially bypassing it...13.85v at the battery @ idle, 15.85v @ 5k rpms......so completely bypassin my brand new vreg gives me charge, I dont get it....new assem..i pick up a napa vr38sb for 13bucks..its a two pronger...not sure if I should try here out..or even how to wire it up...any suggestions?
 
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