Hi guys and gals, I was wondering if anyone else's clutch slips when the clutch itself is cold. The clutch is nice and smooth and only slips if I'm in high gear and go full throttle, it will slip for 2-5 seconds then grip and hold for the rest of ride. It's almost like I need to build up some heat before it fully grabs. The oil is brand new from the local cycle shop so it's not that and the clutch seems to be adjusted properly. Maybe it's time for a new clutch?
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Clutch slips when cold
- Thread starter buschkj24
- Start date
what type of oil did they put in?
could be time for a new clutch. How many miles on the bike?
could be time for a new clutch. How many miles on the bike?
I'm assuming that is motorcycle specific oil?
7k doesn't seem like nearly enough miles to need a clutch. Mine has 21k on the original. However, how it's used is everything.
Check your cable adjustment. Is it possible the cable is too tight when cold? I know you said it seems right, but I would check everything myself before jumping to a clutch replacement.
7k doesn't seem like nearly enough miles to need a clutch. Mine has 21k on the original. However, how it's used is everything.
Check your cable adjustment. Is it possible the cable is too tight when cold? I know you said it seems right, but I would check everything myself before jumping to a clutch replacement.
TimmyT
XS400 Addict
The oil could be the issue, jasf-ma2 approved is what you want. Any 20w30 or higher should do. 20w is viscosity 30 or higher is the temperature rating. Jasf is higher standard grade than north American, as in more stringent standard. MA2 is wet clutch approved which these bikes require.
Most likely the steel plates in the clutch have rust or glaze on them from all the sitting the bike has done over the years. Make sure it's adjusted correct and drive it for a while and give it a few oil changes. It will probably clear up.
TimmyT
XS400 Addict
Forgot to mention the return spring within the sprocket plate. Spring may be stretched out and need replacing or maybe one of the 2 ball bearings within the clutch tensioner and return system may be missing. They are easy to loose if you don't know they are there. Cheap and easy fixes first. Replaced my return spring with 21k on my bike, new cable as well and I too almost lost a ball bearing. Also when you get into it you can add tension for the return on the handlebar end or within the sprocket cover without removal of the cover, if the adjustments don't work then check the spring under the cover. Chris is likely right as well, 7k tells me it was parked for quite some time.
That's good advice right there.
Thanks for the input! The oil is Kawasaki motorcycle made for wet clutch so it should be alright but the next oil change I'll pull the cover off and see what it looks like in there. I will say that the clutch grabs better than it did when I first got the bike with its old oil in there.
agree with chris on that. Another possibility is that someone in the past put the wrong oil in, and you still have remnants of friction modifiers and things like that in there. Next time you do an oil change do a proper one including the oil filter, and make sure you get as much oil out as you can: do it on a hot day, warm the bike up well and let it drain/drip for a few hours.
I wouldn't go at it with cleaners at all, it'll wear itself in over time
You can use the green 3-m scotch brit pad to clean the metal plates. I have done it a bunch of times. Make sure the plates are not warped by placing them on a flat surface. For the friction pads spec them for thickness and if they are ok just give them a spray with some brake clean and wipe with a clean rag. The last thing is to check the springs for the correct length. If all is in spec the clutch is ready to go
