Clutch

JPaganel

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I have gone through the 17 pages of search results here and I still can't figure it out. The Haynes manual is useless.

My clutch engages at the outer end of the lever travel. That means I have to let go almost all the way for it to grab. Most threads here suggest adjusting per manual. Did that, nothing changed. Next suggestion is usually to replace the cable.

I have just put in a new set of friction plates, new springs and a new cable. Cleaned and greased the worm gear, oiled the cable, greased the perch. Adjusted per the manual - turned the Phillips screw until resistance is felt, then adjusted at perch, although there was practically no need to adjust there.

Lever pull is butter-smooth now. However, it still grabs at the very end of the lever travel. What am I missing?
 
You want to reduce pre-load/tension on the cable. Screw the adjuster at the clutch lever IN; if that is not enough go to the adjuster/lifter on the left side of the engine under the black cap. I believe you'll want to back the adjuster on the side cover OUT.

If both of these adjustment points fail you probably installed the clutch wrong :)
 
Both of my xs400's work the same way that is just how they are. My 79 has a complete new clutch and it grabs at the end of the lever. As long as it don't slip it is fine.
 
Well, I tried it.

Didn't change much. I left a little bit more of free play in the cable, so it's a bit better. This makes my clutch lever kinda floppy, I guess the lever is a little worn. I'll see if I can find a washer to fix that.

I'm not sure how you can install the clutch wrong. Well, besides orienting the pressure plate so that it doesn't seat into the splines, but if you do that you get a clutch that doesn't engage at all.

My kickstarter also doesn't engage until the very end of travel. Is that related to the clutch?
 
There are also a few ball bearings in the push-rod assembly. If they were not installed in the correct order there could be some affect.

The adjuster on the side cover really didn't do anything? It had a dramatic effect on my clutch engagement point.

I have never split the crank case, so I can't comment on the kick-start mechanism. Mine also seems to engage pretty late too.

I actually can't stand when a clutch lever engages too far out; it makes my shifting sloppy.
 
I only saw the bearing in the worm gear mechanism in the chain cover. That is in place, lubricated and functioning. I didn't actually take out the pushrod or the mushroom.
 
There is one between the mushroom and the rod as well if I recall correctly, but the side adjuster on the front sprocket cover should reduce/increase the pre-lift on the push-rod pusher thing haha.

Did you set yours out all the way?
 
Any updates on this? Mine does the same thing. New cable, new clutch, adjusted the set screw, still only engages at the very end of lever travel. It's just a pain cause I have to screw the barrel adjuster almost all the way out so my level has some tension. I wonder if I got the wrong cable. Seems like my 82 has a few different parts than the older models.
I wonder if I add something to where the cable end goes into the clutch rod cover it will take some slack out.
 
Charles, try adjusting the pushrod again. Make sure that the barrel adjuster is in all the way and that the cable is fully seated and routed correctly. Once you have the pushrod adjusted properly, remove most of the cable slack with the barrel adjuster. There should be a little play in the clutch lever, but not much. If you still have to wind out the barrel adjuster most of the way, either you missed installing the ball bearing when you did your clutch, or the cable is too long.

Dave
 
I Know when I was working on that section, I have pics in my album, I twisted the rod around, 180. I had posted pics of the rod, being backwards. I had some weird stuff going on cause of it. I had made a vid, and it was easy to fix. I have seen post where people that they have lost the bearing. and didnt know it. since you have a new bike, I hope that helps.
Tobie
 
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