Do i -HAVE- to take the tank off?

jacjr

Jacjr
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When syncing carbs is it a MUST that i take the tank off, or is it merely just for the benefit of ease and time consumption?


Side note, i googled and forum searched, maybe its my adhd but i didnt find anything that specified, excuse me if im wrong i apologize in advance

- John
 
I haven't synced my carbs yet, but in my eyes you wouldn't have to if you can get to everything with it on.. somehow...

I think the biggest issue would be adjusting the screws, the vacuum lines can be reached with the tank on, but the adjustments would be tricky without at least unbolting the tank to lift it up a bit to get down in there.
 
There might be more room to reach the sync screw on the dohc bikes. But Not on the sohc ones.:(
 
I did it a while back on my DOHC. I'd say no, you don't HAVE to, IF your fingers are made of spaghetti and you have a minuscule screwdriver for adjusting the sync screw. But I just took off the tank and synced the carbs with the remaining fuel in the fuel bowls, which is much, much easier. Have to be quick, but it gave me plenty of time to set it right before it died of starvation :)

why wouldn't you want to remove the tank? it's just one bolt to unscrew?
 
Concur, if you can I Use to use a generic Little giant ladder to hold the fuel tank while testing. Now a days, I use 2 different 5 gallons buckets. (one square, one round) that can set up on top of each other, then I can use he existing hose to the carb. Otherwise Its the ladder, and a longer hose. On the ladder, I used a 4x4 as a saddle mount so that the tank would rest semi normal. and save the bottom paint edges.
 
Honestly.... Very honestly I have anxiety when doing something I've never done before but hey I'll just take the tank off lol seems like the easiest and best route thanks for the responses guys
 
Removing the tank is easier then i thought when i first did it. All it is is a bolt with some washers under the seat, and the two hoses that attach to the petcock (a fuel line and a vacuum line).

Run the bike for a bike to fill the carb float bowls, and then make sure the petcock is on anything by PRI and you can just detach the fuel line (the hose will empty of fuel, so it will drip some) and then undo the other hose behind that. Then undo your bolt and it just lifts back and up, and its off. Place it down someplace safe and you're good to go.
 
also i been at work and will be at work all day so its kind of hard to search on the sales floor but is there any pictures showing where to hook up the home made manometer to the carb... unfortunately im a noob and never done this before tomorrow will be my first time
 
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Here you go.
 

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THANK YOU SPECDOG AHAHAHA! it finally clicked what i was supposed to be looking for hahaha right now tanks, off bikes on centerstand and im about to make my manometer.. what liquid should i use in it though does it have to be something thin or thick? ill re-read the old threads about them and edit my post if i find an answer

thanks - John
 
the one time my dad doesnt have some laying around -_-
only stuff we have around is heavy gear oil which is thick as idk what so im not even going to think about that.
 
Yes I use ATF for three reasons. It is easy to see the red colour in the tubes and it is thin oil so it moves easily when a vacuum is applied. Also if your carbs are way off and the oil gets sucked into your engine, the ATF will not harm anything.
 

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I used regular motor oil, just some 10W40 or something

You want it to be thicker than water so it won't be sucked into the engine that quickly, but thin enough to get some movement in the tube. If you have something in an obvious color, like red, it's quite nice. I remembered after I was finished I had some red front fork oil :doh:

but it's all fine, the one just works a little easier than the other
 
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