For our northern neighbors:
https://www.yamahagenuineparts.com/index.asp
Big Canadian supplier of Yamaha parts. I had to get some non-USA spec parts from them and they are great to work with.
If you're going to the trouble of emptying your tank, I'd suggest going all the way and coating the inside with Kreem or a similar product. That way, you don't have to clean your carbs constantly from all the microscopic rust particles that get in your fuel. The ethanol will still require carb attention, but you won't be fighting the debris in the tank.
No matter how clean you think your tank is, I'm pretty sure our 30+ year old tanks have some rust and debris inside. This takes care of that in one pass. Buy the kit, not just the tank coating. If you're uneasy about it, take the tank to a reputable shop and have them do it. The goop will mess up the paint, so mask the tank and make a blank-off for the fuel tap opening. I've done many, it works like a charm.
Storing ethanol based fuel for more than a month of so will require some form of stabilizer. Storing dry without a coated tank will no doubt allow some rust to form. If you wish to do neither, at least put some two-stroke pre-mix oil in and slosh it around. Then when you go to start up the bike again, top it off with fresh premium. That should dilute the oil enough that is won't matter. Either way, I'd not leave modern fuel (unless you're running VP fuel race gas) in my carbs for more than a few weeks, otherwise you'll be pulling the carbs and cleaning out the yellow jello.
By the way: run a few tanks of VP gas mixed 25% with 75% premium through your engine. You'll be amazed on how well it runs. Run it straight up if you really want to see how these bikes ran when they were new and didn't have to accommodate crappy gas.