Emptying the gas tank

[flornz]

I took out my gas tank for the purpose of completely emptying it so I can put in fresh gasoline. I am having a hard time getting all the liquid out of the tank (via the main opening)? Any tips on this?
Also, I want to replace my rubber fuel line and fuel filter. For southern Ontarians, where do I get these items locally please?

Thank you.

 

[16VGTIDave]

Once you have most of the fuel out of the tank, remove the petcock and slosh the remaining fuel out.

Any local autoparts store or small engine repair shop will have fuel line and filters.

 

[flornz]

Thanks Dave. So that petcock assembly attached to the tanks (2 phillips screws) need to go, eh?

 

[arfstrom]

Yup, you betcha.

 

[willem]

It's tricky getting the last bit out, I took the petcock off but ended up draining the last bit through the filler cap hole. But then the Seca's petcock doesn't sit all the way at the bottom of the tank, yours might. You should've seen me shakin that tank around like a crazy person

 

[Recreateme]

This is a good thread, I am going to need to do this shortly, glad you asked so i dont have to in three months lol

 

[flornz]

It's tricky getting the last bit out, I took the petcock off but ended up draining the last bit through the filler cap hole. But then the Seca's petcock doesn't sit all the way at the bottom of the tank, yours might. You should've seen me shakin that tank around like a crazy person

I was turning the tank every which way (while doing a lot of cursing) just to get the last little bit out, to no avail. I thought about getting some straw in there and sipping like you would would from a soft drink bottle.

 

[Sesty]

is it better to store over winter with a totally filled tank with some Sta-bil or something like that or completely empty tank

 

[Recreateme]

I would say if you store it in doors with a heat/humidity controlled area you would be fine with either. If you store outside without that control i would put stabilizer in the tank with some gas..

If its completely empty it would be dry, but you risk moisture and then rust getting in there, if its got fuel in it i would assume it wouldn't be as prone to rust.

 

[filterx]

I used a cheap plastic turkey baster and flash light which was able to get into the right top hand corner when you have the tank off the bike and held in the correct position.

It was able to get 99.9% of the gas out but you might want to tape the nozzle to the bulb to make sure it doesn't come apart.

I'm going to fill the tank and add stabilizer for the winter but am open to suggestions since I'm putting my bike away next week.

I got my fuel line and a fuel filter with 90 deg connections at a local Yamaha dealer cheap

 

[Yamaguy55]

For our northern neighbors:
https://www.yamahagenuineparts.com/index.asp

Big Canadian supplier of Yamaha parts. I had to get some non-USA spec parts from them and they are great to work with.

If you're going to the trouble of emptying your tank, I'd suggest going all the way and coating the inside with Kreem or a similar product. That way, you don't have to clean your carbs constantly from all the microscopic rust particles that get in your fuel. The ethanol will still require carb attention, but you won't be fighting the debris in the tank.

No matter how clean you think your tank is, I'm pretty sure our 30+ year old tanks have some rust and debris inside. This takes care of that in one pass. Buy the kit, not just the tank coating. If you're uneasy about it, take the tank to a reputable shop and have them do it. The goop will mess up the paint, so mask the tank and make a blank-off for the fuel tap opening. I've done many, it works like a charm.


Storing ethanol based fuel for more than a month of so will require some form of stabilizer. Storing dry without a coated tank will no doubt allow some rust to form. If you wish to do neither, at least put some two-stroke pre-mix oil in and slosh it around. Then when you go to start up the bike again, top it off with fresh premium. That should dilute the oil enough that is won't matter. Either way, I'd not leave modern fuel (unless you're running VP fuel race gas) in my carbs for more than a few weeks, otherwise you'll be pulling the carbs and cleaning out the yellow jello.

By the way: run a few tanks of VP gas mixed 25% with 75% premium through your engine. You'll be amazed on how well it runs. Run it straight up if you really want to see how these bikes ran when they were new and didn't have to accommodate crappy gas.

 

[XSLeo]

If you are just draining the fuel out to put in fresh. Don't worry too much about getting the last few ounces out. Just drain what you can, refill with fresh gas. Those few ounces won't have much effect in a three gallon or more fill up.
For storage you can drain the tank, fill with Kerosene Or Diesel fuel, Drain out in the spring and fill with gas.
Leo

 

[arfstrom]

fill with Kerosene Or Diesel fuel,

diesel, hadn't heard that one before. You know fuel does evaporate really fast, what about blowing air accross the top of your fuel tank, with the like of an Wet/Dry vac, using the blowing side to increase the evaporation rate?

 

[Yamaguy55]

You mean add enough air to make the fumes really explosive??

I can't really see getting it completely dry unless you're going to coat it, and the coating kits have a prep kit that deals with residual fuel. Therefore:
So I can't understand why anyone would need it completely dry.

Put some SeaFoam or other fuel system cleaner in a full tank of gas and that should purge previous stuff. Using race gas will really clean it up. Avoid methanol based stuff. Tough on rubber and engines.

 

[Yamaguy55]

If you are just draining the fuel out to put in fresh. Don't worry too much about getting the last few ounces out. Just drain what you can, refill with fresh gas. Those few ounces won't have much effect in a three gallon or more fill up.
For storage you can drain the tank, fill with Kerosene Or Diesel fuel, Drain out in the spring and fill with gas.
Leo

Years ago, I lived in Maine. The bikes shivered in the garage all winter. Due to the dampness and large temp swings, often the bikes would be sweating like an Iced Tea glass in Alabama in July. I was told by a neighbor to put my leftover premix from the chain saw in the tanks of everything with an engine. Run them until you could smell the two stroke smell, then shut down. In spring, drain out the residue and top off with fresh. The oil in the pre mix coated the tank and carbs, plus it kept the rubber parts soft and flexible. As a last bonus, it kept the carb parts from corroding and creating the " yellow jello" thing. These days, ethanol causes it's own problems, but the old premix in the tank still works. I still do it to the lawn mower and snow blower in the off seasons.

Give it a try, it works very well.

If you want to really get your engines started and happy in the start up, use some VP race gas. It will easily flush out the pre mix, and really clean out the varnish. Pricey, but worth it.

 

[63-Coupe]

Full tank with stabilizer is a much better choice over an empty tank for storage as there is less chance of condensation. Here is what I posted last year regarding what I have been doing for 30+ years when it comes time for winter storage.



Mine sits in a detached unheated garage all winter. The cold will not affect the bike, your biggest enemy is moisture mainly from condensation due to temperature fluctuations and our damp winters here.

Here are the basics;

1. Change the oil
2. Fill the gas tank with gas and add gas stabilizer, the less air in the tank the less chance for condensation
3. Run the engine for about 5 minutes to get the treated gas into the carbs. No need to drain the carbs.
4. Pull the battery
5. Put on a cover that will breathe so that moisture does not get trapped under it.


I have been following this procedure on my motorcycle, Corvette, and lawn tractor for 30+ years with no problems.

 

[flornz]

If you want to really get your engines started and happy in the start up, use some VP race gas. It will easily flush out the pre mix, and really clean out the varnish. Pricey, but worth it.

What is this VP race gas and where do I get this in southern Ontario?

 

[Charles]

Just toss a match in there. That should get rid of all the residual gas.

 

[willem]

Just to make sure: do NOT set your tank on fire, it's not a good idea and i hope that was just a bad joke

 

[Yamaguy55]

What is this VP race gas and where do I get this in southern Ontario?

Can't say across the border. The off road racers usually get it at where ever they buy their stuff. VP makes several grades. There is some designed for street applications as well as race bikes. It has no ethanol and tends to really clean out your fuel system.
Sunoco sold a race fuel marketed as "Cam2" and we can still find it around here, but PA is their headquarters state.

Look them (VP) up and see if they have a Canadian dealer. The little off road shop where I pick up stuff like Motion Pro tools and things for my WRR carries it, and the dealer where I bought my Super Tenere carries it as well. So around here, it is easy to get. You can use a five gallon can of VP as additive for premium pump gas and it makes your engine happy. Somewhat overkill for XS400 engines. But it somewhat counters all the stuff engines have to tolerate with ethanol. When I regularly ran Two strokes, they responded very well to using non-pump gas for a change.