Engine randomly dying

[arfstrom]

Get a $20, multimeter, this is the one I got. you can always pay more, but we dont' need to.

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/INN0/3320.oap

Since I have bought a battery tender last year, I have the quick disconnect on the battery, then I pick up this charming helpful (troubleshoot only device) It tells you via LED screen the amount of volts, then it has a Green, Yellow, Red lights, which tell you if your charging system is working good(green) or bad (red), or needs help (yellow). As long as you looking at your batter, checkk for fluild level, (if yours has that) I got both the battery tender and neat gadget from Amazon. (planning on picking up the USB plug in too, (soon)
http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tende...uick+Disconnect+Plug+with+LCD+Voltage+Display

Get a test light too.
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/PFM0/W2975C.oap This is great to make sure electricity is where its suppose to be. Then you can skip test area, if you know they are fine.

Clutch problems-- I tend to blame the oil. I don't know how the clutch is killing the engine, so first off,
is there oil in the crank case?
Get a filter, (do a google search in your area, for CH6003) Not all autoparts stores have them, go to your favorite store, and do a search, see if they have it. My local store tells me I have to go 10 miles away to get it from that store type, (or order it in) Then Google told me I can get the same filter from Fleetfarm, for cheaper. Do what you will, its your money. Then I recommend the oil brand from Shell Rotella T 15w-40. There is a code to make sure the oil is "wet clutch compatible" is ("JASO MA" make sure the oil you buy is JASO MA. if you don't have what we recommend. The shell oil is, and can be found at walmart for 1 gallon at 12.77, then if local competition, menards might be price matching, so buyer beware, 1 quart $4.17 (per walmart.com)
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Shell-Rotella-T-15W40-Motor-Oil-1-Gal/14958327
1 gallon is 4 quarts, 4.17x4=$16.68. I like to have a 1 quart size container for topping off the bike. Some people will get the synthetic, fine as long as its JASO MA. (better if you rebuild, then go with synthetic)

Hope that helps, I have to go school.

 

[jonjkim12]

awesome,

thanks for the suggestions Arfstrom, definitely going to get that.

Hopefully it'll answer a few questions. going to try cleaning/tightening the spark plugs and re adjusting the mixture screws when i get home. see if that'll at least solve the clutch issues.

 

[xschris]

Hey Lou and Arfstrom,

i'm going to try to get you those answers. Since my motorcycle knowledge is pretty limited, it going to take some sniffing around for me to find these answers. I have photos of the air filters attached.

i just took her out for a ride again, and the clutch problem seems to be worse, now within 5 min of riding when i pull in the clutch the engine is dying, and if i can get it engaged downshifting before it quits, it just struggles until it dies.

the two issues here seem separate. one is when it dies while cruising at higher speeds at high rpms, the other is when the clutch is pulled.

i recently changed the spark plugs, i gapped them according to the manual, but i'm going to check again. as for the first issue at higher speeds, that one stumps me.

what do i need to buy to check the battery?

Ok I noticed some things that would cause problems for you. First off the air filters you are using are the worst ones that you can use. I would recommend either finding a factory H-pipe to put the ones you have now on the end or getting some uni foam pods. Second the right side choke plunger is wired to the lever arm. This is a no no as it will hold the choke open a bit causing all sorts of problems. Remove it and do the same for the other if it has it. The plastic sleeve that goes around the plunger has a top and bottom hat that pulls it up and keeps it down. I have a few extras I can sell you for cheap if you want. The last thing is I noticed is that the clamp for the intake manifold boot looks to be not around the rubber part of the boot but more on the carb. You may be pulling air there if the seal is bad. I will post some pics of what things should look like.

 

[arfstrom]

I don't see how that will fix clutch issues? Generally its either mechanical, handle bar or through out device,disk or springs. Or it is a wet clutch,which needs oil, and bad oil will jack it up. No oil? It needs it. Figure just shy of 2 qts. If you are changing oil n filter. Good luck

 

[xschris]

That was for his other issues As for oil it's about 2 1/2 quarts if you do the filter. A bit more if you drain the sump. He has a xs360 so it will have a dipstick. The later 80-82 sohc ones only had a site glass witch is not very accurate. If you put the bike on the center stand and set the dipstick in so the threads touch it will give a good reading.

 

[jonjkim12]

I'm going to check the oil later this week once my center jack comes in the mail. any suggestions on how to strap this thing down onto that?

xschris, i may have to take you up on the plunger sale. is it reasonably easily to put on?

yesterday, i cleaned the spark plugs really well, and tightened them down, i also we did the mixture screws. i'm going to test ride her today and see if the clutch issue keeps happening.

once the center jack is in i can do a lot more testing.

 

[xschris]

The center stand is held on by two bolts and a spring in the middle that keeps it up when you put it up. The plastic bushing for the choke is held on with a c-clip. Once you remove the fork that pulls it up and pushes it down it just slides on.

 

[jonjkim12]

I don't have an actual center stand, not sure if that's something that comes stock, but mines just has a kick stand.

i purchased an actual center jack that i can crank with a wrench, but i'm pretty sure i need to strap it so it doesn't tip over. i wasn't sure if it should be strapped to the actual jack (which is pretty small) or if i'd need to find something more concrete around me to strap it to.

good news though, i re did the mixture screw/idle screw AGAIN. and when i turned up the idle screw to idle around 1.5-1.7 after a quick warm up, she stopped having the clutch issue. So that must have started the first time i tried to adjust the mixture screws. my mixture screws are set to a little more than 1.5 turns out, almost 2.

does any of that help explain the problem of the engine dying while cruising at higher speeds? my exhaust did have a little afterfire out of the right exhaust when i took her for a spin, but that could have been because i was changing gears up then back down a little too fast. i was trying to get some range across the gears.

i feel like someone is going to say i should clean the carbs. i can find a post here i'm sure, but before i refer to that. someone told me i can get a chemical and just leave it in that chemical for a while ("boil") as opposed to what i've seen on the forums here. suggestions?

by the way, i am still going to try all of your suggestions from before, i just need to wait for all my tools/supplies to arrive.

 

[xschris]

I would look for a used center stand so you can check the oil correctly. You can find them on ebay with the hardware for cheap. The sohc xs400 from 77-82 will work also. If you don't want to keep it on while riding you can just slide the bolts that hold it on in then take it off after you do the work. It's what I do on my 80.

 

[arfstrom]

http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/293/mngr/motorcycle-stands.aspx

If you dont have a centerstand, I would think maybe one of these might help?

 

[xschris]

Here ya go http://www.ebay.com/itm/81-YAMAHA-X...Parts_Accessories&hash=item4d1f5e77ea&vxp=mtr

 

[jonjkim12]

Arfstrom: i was going to get one of those but my exhaust is in the way, so i'd only really be able to lift the front of the bike if i had that.

i got one of these

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E8HGCEY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

xschris, that link is way cheaper!, does what i bought not do the same thing?

 

[arfstrom]

my first website I ran into, was starting out at 89 bucks, then my second one at least had some at the 40 buck level. I kinda figured one would work, like the 158 dollar one for the drive-in one

 

[xschris]

Arfstrom: i was going to get one of those but my exhaust is in the way, so i'd only really be able to lift the front of the bike if i had that.

i got one of these

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E8HGCEY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

xschris, that link is way cheaper!, does what i bought not do the same thing?

No. As it will lift the entire bike off the ground. It will also block all you drain plugs under the bike. See how my 79 is with just the rear wheel off the ground. This was what yamaha did to make the motor "level" for checking oil as well as working on the rear of the bike. Plus getting to all the plugs/sump cover for the oil.

 

[jonjkim12]

damn,

didn't consider the plugs. guess i'm gonna have to return it and get the center stand.

update: i rode the bike today, and it was especially bad. BUT i remembered the clutch issue started when i started playing with the mixture/idle screws. is it possible i just have the idle screw too low? i read on a different site that someone had basically the same issue and he just turned the idle screw up and it disappeared, so i guess i'll try that. It idles at the manual's preference right now. is there any way to adjust based on turns from seated like the mixture screws?

i definitely think the clutch issue is from me tinkering while trying to fix the original issue.

 

[jonjkim12]

can anyone see if anything here look weird? (pictures)

 

[xschris]

Looks like some after market blade fuses. Make sure they are the correct amps for the circuit. If the points have any pits in the contact breakers I would replace them. If not make sure the gaps are set. Also make sure to put a few drips or oil on that cam lobe wick that the points ride on.

 

[xschris]

damn,

didn't consider the plugs. guess i'm gonna have to return it and get the center stand.

update: i rode the bike today, and it was especially bad. BUT i remembered the clutch issue started when i started playing with the mixture/idle screws. is it possible i just have the idle screw too low? i read on a different site that someone had basically the same issue and he just turned the idle screw up and it disappeared, so i guess i'll try that. It idles at the manual's preference right now. is there any way to adjust based on turns from seated like the mixture screws?

i definitely think the clutch issue is from me tinkering while trying to fix the original issue.

Have you fixed the choke yet? If it is on a little your carb adjustments will be off.

 

[jonjkim12]

just the same oil for the engine? and no i haven't fixed the choke yet, i checked how its working with the wire and it seems to be close fully. i do plan on changing it, just not now.

i was looking at the point and took the cover off the engine where the LF and RF are, and a little oil came out. is that normal? i ordered the center stand, so i'll use that when i adjust the points/timing.

do i need to add back some oil after some of it comes out?

thought raising the idle screw would fix the clutch issue, but it's still happening. yesterday, i had the idle set at 1.6-1.8, still happened.

btw checked the battery last night too, it was at 12.77 with the key on, and ~12.96 at idle. so i don't think its the battery that was causing any of the issues. some people have mentioned a capacitor issue and moisture in the points.

also, not sure if its worth mentioned, but my left spark plug is really dark and sooted. the right one is fine.

 

[xschris]

A little oil will come out with that cover off but you should do it with a center stand on the bike. The bike should be charging 14.5v at 5k rpms make sure it does. If the one plug is black and sooty it is too rich. You removed the wire from the choke and it made no difference? If you points are pitted and are sparking while it's running the capacitor is weak or bad. I would replace it and the points also if you have no idea when it was done last. After you set the valves you need to sync the carbs. There are a lot of steps you need to take in a certain order otherwise it will throw off other things. Points capacitor, static timing, valves, sync and adjust carbs. My guess is when you get to the carbs you should take them apart to clean and see what jets are in it and if any of the rubber bits are bad.