My bad, wrong part from bay of e

226dark

226dark

78 2E
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I purchased this mud guard from ebay advertised for 77 400D
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&_trksid=p4340.l2557&item=250825282380&nma=true&rt=nc&si=QeMLDc5tJkJeeq0C5sOUD2GkhQM%253D&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWNX%3AIT&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc

It cleaned up nicely and looks better than the picture. Excellent! I went to put it on this afternoon and immediately noticed that the holes toward rear fender don't line up.
I got a 79 XS400 part. Should have looked much closer!
Although it fits and I'll use it for now, the rear-most part of the plastic mudguard just meets up even with the chrome rear fender. Nothing overlapping or to properly secure the upper rear of the part :banghead:
I guess buyer beware. Should have lOOked!


 
lhaolpa said:
Get a piece of sheet metal and make it work.You shouldn't have to,but it'll work. lha
Click to expand...

Thanks, I'm considering that and without putting holes in the fender preferably.
The good part is it is a snug fit and really isn't going far but may shake, vibrate, and buzz.
It rests (almost) right on the upper damper bolt and thought of using longer bolts for damper and that would keep them snugly up.
Or else find or make a bracket that goes from the holes in the wrong part toward the fender bolt just behind it. the holes would be 1 1/2" apart.

. . . .and THIS . . . is why you need a rear mudguard! (not to mention that the rear light wires along with the boot containing the bullet connectors, were chafed away by the rear wheel :wtf:)

img005.jpg

looks much diff now :) btw if anyone sees this and can tell me for sure (off topic) I know that fuse second from front is flashers/indicator lights, but what are each of the fuses. One is a spare, right?
 
If the two fender pieces fit closely together,you can get a piece of sheet metal and pop rivet them together with rubber[innertube] between them so as not to rattle.It shouldn't be too noticeable,as it's up under the wheel.I would replace the fusebox with sealed modern fuses or a breaker panel for boats or customizing cars.There are some small breaker panels that could be mounted almost anywhere. lha
 
lhaolpa said:
If the two fender pieces fit closely together,you can get a piece of sheet metal and pop rivet them together with rubber[innertube] between them so as not to rattle.It shouldn't be too noticeable,as it's up under the wheel.I would replace the fusebox with sealed modern fuses or a breaker panel for boats or customizing cars.There are some small breaker panels that could be mounted almost anywhere. lha
Click to expand...

I will switch to blade fuses after it is up & runnin'. Still need to get mufflers, and small things etc, etc. Funds! :shrug:
Today from Yama dealer picked up 6 (of 8) clamps for Carb/airbox assy. Only $45.09! for those :eek: The bleepin thing was missing 7 of 8. Still need the two clamps for intake boots - obsolete - but can get those two from auto store.
Still not sure which all fuses exactly which of the 4. Here I thought at least the owners manual I got for specific exact bike would tell me, , 10.50 off eBay, still a good buy.

exhaust i am looking at these but that is off-topic and not thrilled to purchase anything from them at the moment, funds or no funds :thumbsdown:
 
Last edited:
According to my manual,you need one 20a,and 3-10a fuses or breakers.Breakers would be my choice,as they heat up,opening the circuit ,and when cooled,they can be reset. Of course,you want to find the cause of the short and repair as soon as possible,but with breakers,you won't run out of fuses should you get caught out and a short happens. They are cheap,and some Walmarts have them in the boating section. Whatever you do,Good luck. lha
 
lhaolpa said:
According to my manual,you need one 20a,and 3-10a fuses or breakers.Breakers would be my choice,as they heat up,opening the circuit ,and when cooled,they can be reset. Of course,you want to find the cause of the short and repair as soon as possible,but with breakers,you won't run out of fuses should you get caught out and a short happens. They are cheap,and some Walmarts have them in the boating section. Whatever you do,Good luck. lha
Click to expand...

I kinda want to see the noticeable difference when running between using the glass fuses, then switching to blade type. Also lazy.
Aware of one 20 amp main and others 10. From what the bike WAS (read wretched) no telling last owner put anything where it belongs.
Just from that pic might notice seat hinge bolt and screw variety, missing airbox brackets, no place to put rectifier -broken off, and the list goes on. The funny with that not-the-big-picture picture is that there is a battery strap. . .how did that happen I wonder.
 
i figured why start a new thread for this flub up. Again.
What's wrong with this 'image'? pun intended :(

DSC00271.jpg




I bought the LH mirror a year ago 2/23, NOS, $40 and checked my paypal acct, listing read:
Yamaha RD400 XS360 XS750 NOS Right Mirror Assembly J/M
(RH is scuffed up original came with bike and i'm staying with that unfortunately).
I suppose of all the numerous purchases made on eBay my percentage of error isn't bad, 2 and counting :banghead:
So does anyone want a too-tall brand new mirror? cost of shipping. Otherwise i'd maybe put it back on eBay, but not sure exactly what bike to list it as belonging to.
 
If that fuse box is mounted right, my box has them listed from left to right 20A MAIN, 10A HEADLIGHT, 10A SIGNAL, 10A IGNITION.
 
On the fuses The round glass fuses are held by metallips. Over the years the clips get weak and don't make good contact. This poor contact creates heat. Heat weakens the clips. Eventually the clips break.
The fuses can look good be broken in the end caps, or the heat can unsolder the fuse wire from the end caps.
These weak connections might keep you from getting the bike to run.
Replace them now, save yourself lots of headaches.
The main fuses has red wires, the ignition fuse has red/white wires, the headlight fuse Blue or blue/yellow. The signal fuse has brown wires.
Leo
 
Excellent info and thanks - -you saw the off topic fine print! Yea :)
Previous owner had four 15 amp fuses in, probably to avoid being confused, hmmm.
So if that is correct, a Big Thanks ProMarine, and that would be left to right in that ugly looking pic.
I intend to replace with blade fuses after I see how badly it runs with the all-original stock setup is. Keepin it real, ha. It is outdated to stay w/ glass and i've heard of the clip fuse holders breaking off etc. Thanks!!

And the color code specifics too, thanks XSLeo
 
Just had a thought on your fender problem. Is there room enough between the steel and plastic to put 1/4 bolts with fender washers and rubber washers to clamp the two inline? If so that will stop rattles and not require drilling either piece.
Leo
 
XSLeo said:
Just had a thought on your fender problem. Is there room enough between the steel and plastic to put 1/4 bolts with fender washers and rubber washers to clamp the two inline? If so that will stop rattles and not require drilling either piece.
Leo
Click to expand...

Fine idea and may try that :thumbsup: Almost forgot to follow through doing anything because it fits so snugged and planned to replace with the CORRECT mudguard eventually. Also living in a nowhere hick back alley backwards town I have to make a trip, if i care to remember, just going to a hardware store.
 

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