Wow dude that thing looks brand new..wow.
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My Original xs400 Special
- Thread starter super_usdm
- Start date
Here's another view of what you're seeing down the oil filler hole:
http://www.xs400.com/threads/kickstarter-not-working.14084/#post-147910
http://www.xs400.com/threads/kickstarter-not-working.14084/#post-147910
super_usdm
XS400 Member
I didn't realize that bleeding the brake on this thing would be such a PITA. I spent about an hour and a half screwing with it yesterday before calling it a night. Going to try again tonight and plan to start by making sure the master cyl is primed by plugging the end with my finger (with top banjo connection removed). Then connecting the line and moving down to the end of the brake line and repeating the procedure before connecting it to the caliper. Then normal squeeze, crack, close, pump procedure. Hopefully that'll do it - cause I'm eager to ride it to work on these rare sunny Columbus days (and not get raped on daily paid parking).
super_usdm
XS400 Member
Thanks! It'll be staying original for the most part. I did order some new bars for it this weekend... but don't tell the others for I will be castrated for it I'm sure!
Wow, that's about as far from a dipstick as you can get!
Thanks for clearing that up for me.super_usdm
XS400 Member
Removing the top banjo and working my way down the line worked like a charm. 10 minute job.
super_usdm
XS400 Member
Its been a few weeks so I wanted to update on where the bike is at. What I thought was a seized front brake caliper turned out to be a plugged relief hole in the master cylinder, so after rebuilding the caliper and the master cylinder, and unclogging the relief hole, the front brake works perfectly. I changed the handlebars out to the clubman style bar from MikesXS and I love the look! After swapping out the original handlebars, the stepped seat has really grown on me. The painted bar required removing the paint below the contact points on the grips for the electric starter to work, as you all likely know.
The bike had begun to run rather poorly and I noticed it was only running on one cylinder through most the RPM range. Changing the plugs made no difference, so I pulled the carbs to rebuild them. After rebuilding the carbs the bike starts much easier and runs great. It now runs on both cylinders and pulls strong through the entire RPM range to redline. I DID accidentally set the floats too low (I used the measurement for the plastic floats instead of brass), but the bike is not leaking fuel into the air filters and seems to only be running excessively rich on the left side. The PO massively stripped out the fuel drain screw on the left carb so I havent checked fuel levels with a clear tube yet. Also only did a bench sync on the carbs at this point, so I will have some work to do next time I pull the carbs resetting the floats and doing a proper sync.
While swapping out the handle bars, I flipped the headlight bracket to lower it a few inches. I really like the way it looks being a little lower. I also had to flip the headlight to get the wiring harness to clear the horn, so I need to relocate the horn so I can right the headlight and regain use of the highbeam. I'll also be fashioning a bracket to lower the cluster the same amount as the headlight. I took the advice I got here and added some washers to the handlebar mounts and it stiffened the bushing up really nice. Overall I am really happy with everything so far and the bike seems reliable enough to ride to work daily. All original parts are still intact besides the handlebar and handlebar weights, which I will be storing. Thanks again to all that have posted and helped out, this forum has been extremely helpful, especially regarding the master cylinder relief hole which was completely covered and hidden by rust and gunk.
The bike had begun to run rather poorly and I noticed it was only running on one cylinder through most the RPM range. Changing the plugs made no difference, so I pulled the carbs to rebuild them. After rebuilding the carbs the bike starts much easier and runs great. It now runs on both cylinders and pulls strong through the entire RPM range to redline. I DID accidentally set the floats too low (I used the measurement for the plastic floats instead of brass), but the bike is not leaking fuel into the air filters and seems to only be running excessively rich on the left side. The PO massively stripped out the fuel drain screw on the left carb so I havent checked fuel levels with a clear tube yet. Also only did a bench sync on the carbs at this point, so I will have some work to do next time I pull the carbs resetting the floats and doing a proper sync.
While swapping out the handle bars, I flipped the headlight bracket to lower it a few inches. I really like the way it looks being a little lower. I also had to flip the headlight to get the wiring harness to clear the horn, so I need to relocate the horn so I can right the headlight and regain use of the highbeam. I'll also be fashioning a bracket to lower the cluster the same amount as the headlight. I took the advice I got here and added some washers to the handlebar mounts and it stiffened the bushing up really nice. Overall I am really happy with everything so far and the bike seems reliable enough to ride to work daily. All original parts are still intact besides the handlebar and handlebar weights, which I will be storing. Thanks again to all that have posted and helped out, this forum has been extremely helpful, especially regarding the master cylinder relief hole which was completely covered and hidden by rust and gunk.
super_usdm
XS400 Member
I took the bike out for a 50 mile ride yesterday and noticed some strange things happening.
1) the clutch started slipping when I really get on it, it 'lets go' between 4-6k RPM and catches again after I release the throttle. I read a few posts about the clutch slipping on bikes that have sat awhile due to glazing of the clutch discs, so I am hoping that is my problem. The bike only has 1450 miles on it so I assume it's not due to normal wear and tear.
2) Shortly after the clutch slipped a couple times the tachometer stopped working. It bounced around sporadically for a few minutes and then stopped working entirely, reading zero RMP while idling and cruising.
The PO installed a shut-off valve due to a leaky petcock, and I accidentally left it open a few times for 8-12 hour intervals since my last oil change about three weeks ago. On top of that I screwed up and set my brass floats to 22 mm rather than 26 mm when I rebuilt the carbs. The engine began to tick very loudly and I noticed the oil level had increased by about 1/2 to 3/4 quart. I suspected the oil was contaminated with fuel and that may have thinned out the oil to a point where it was no longer properly lubricating the system, so I changed it and the ticking has subsided for the most part. I am wondering if the oil contamination could somehow be related to my slipping clutch? Not sure what to blame for the dead tach though. (edit: I changed to fresh oil just before going for my 50 mile ride)
Thoughts anyone?
Also - Photobucket wants to charge me $399/yr to host photos. What site do you all recommend that is free and easy to setup and use?
1) the clutch started slipping when I really get on it, it 'lets go' between 4-6k RPM and catches again after I release the throttle. I read a few posts about the clutch slipping on bikes that have sat awhile due to glazing of the clutch discs, so I am hoping that is my problem. The bike only has 1450 miles on it so I assume it's not due to normal wear and tear.
2) Shortly after the clutch slipped a couple times the tachometer stopped working. It bounced around sporadically for a few minutes and then stopped working entirely, reading zero RMP while idling and cruising.
The PO installed a shut-off valve due to a leaky petcock, and I accidentally left it open a few times for 8-12 hour intervals since my last oil change about three weeks ago. On top of that I screwed up and set my brass floats to 22 mm rather than 26 mm when I rebuilt the carbs. The engine began to tick very loudly and I noticed the oil level had increased by about 1/2 to 3/4 quart. I suspected the oil was contaminated with fuel and that may have thinned out the oil to a point where it was no longer properly lubricating the system, so I changed it and the ticking has subsided for the most part. I am wondering if the oil contamination could somehow be related to my slipping clutch? Not sure what to blame for the dead tach though. (edit: I changed to fresh oil just before going for my 50 mile ride)
Thoughts anyone?
Also - Photobucket wants to charge me $399/yr to host photos. What site do you all recommend that is free and easy to setup and use?
What oil was in it? you clutch may not be glazed, you could have the oil not compatible with the "wet clutch" system.
super_usdm
XS400 Member
I am using Valvoline 20W50 4-stroke MC oil from Autozone.
I can't find the info on the web site,
I know drewpy seems to use your grade of oil
http://www.xs400.com/threads/motor-oil.5555/ drewpies included a pic of his choice
http://www.xs400.com/threads/put-your-opinion-on-the-oil-im-using.6344/ explanition of to look for JASO MA.
I know drewpy seems to use your grade of oil
http://www.xs400.com/threads/motor-oil.5555/ drewpies included a pic of his choice
http://www.xs400.com/threads/put-your-opinion-on-the-oil-im-using.6344/ explanition of to look for JASO MA.
super_usdm
XS400 Member
Thanks for the info. Really the only reason I am using what I have now is because it was my only choice at the local auto parts store and I saw that people on here were using the same weight occasionally. The clutch hasnt slipped again in the last three days riding it to work, so thats good, but I have taken it a little easier.
As far as the tacho cable... well, I was noticing my instrument cluster has been bouncing around a LOT lately on the cobblestone streets around my house, so I checked the hardware this AM before work and - lo and behold - hardware was loose and tach cable was sitting there out of socket. Doh!
At this point it looks like I just need to monitor the clutch and buck up and buy a petcock rebuild kit to I dont have to worry about the shut off valve, not to mention I still need to put in an in-line fuel filter.
As far as the tacho cable... well, I was noticing my instrument cluster has been bouncing around a LOT lately on the cobblestone streets around my house, so I checked the hardware this AM before work and - lo and behold - hardware was loose and tach cable was sitting there out of socket. Doh!
At this point it looks like I just need to monitor the clutch and buck up and buy a petcock rebuild kit to I dont have to worry about the shut off valve, not to mention I still need to put in an in-line fuel filter.
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