My xs400

Kingjetpack

Weld every damn day
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So this my first time posting and here's my experience...
Changing turn signals
Oil change
Replaced chain and front sprocket
Installed aftermarket mufflers LOUD!
I'm not very experienced in this world and I'm here to learn how to do things and rat out my bike.
I've got my ideas on hardtail
On a budget and I've seen the strut removed and replaced with tubing, this route is where I think I'm going... I'm excited to make a spring seat
I also want to go with a foot clutch and hand shift
Other than that...I'm just kinda wingin it
Last year I painted red and black with plastidip, it was fun and frustrating in the cold
Well any general help on where I'm going to tune and trick out my bike in my own garage?
 
Does it run?
If not, before you try to start it, drain any and all old gas out. Ideally, take the tank off and flush out the interior with some fresh gas. Then buy and install a $3 in-line fuel filter before running it.

Avoid ethanol gas. 91 grade from Shell, ESSO, UltraMar = :thumbsup: ... Husky, Pioneer, Sunoco = :thumbsdown:

Then, just don't over-torque and break anything.

Here's a great place to start - well worth reading before you jump ahead in your excitement and end up simply creating avoidable, owner-inflected maintenance opportunities - http://www.xs400.com/forum/showthread.php?t=10595
 
She runs, I've had her for the past 3 years and last winter with the change in colour just got me eager to do lots of custom work, I have a fuel filter, change it whenever it starts to look grimey...so any tips on hardtail?
Like I've read another user had replaced the strut with square tube...I removed my strut and checked it out, looks pretty simple, I'm grabbing some tube from work on Monday, any things I wanna kno before putting the tube in there?
 
After changing up the mufflers, I'm experiencing some backfires when using engine brakes
Also the head gaskets been slowly leaking the whole summer of 2013. I've been considering taking apart the engine and rebuilding it? I've a gasket kit in the mail... Off eBay
So if I dismantle the engine and have a gasket kit, what can I do to make her I faster, or run more efficiently? I'm currently topping out at like 150-160kmph
 
Adjust your idle mixture richer and sync the carbs to get rid of the deceleration misfires (FYI: backfiring is through the carbs). Also check for any leaks in the exhaust system as they can also cause popping in the exhaust.

I'd suggest verifying your speedo for accuracy. 150 kph is rather fast for our bikes. I know that mine is reading high by 10 kph above 90 kph, and more as the speed increases. Trying to get above 160 kph (100 mph) is expensive. They are only 400's with relatively low rev limits after all. There aren't many choices for aftermarket performance parts either, so you will have to fabricate what you need.

So, that leaves weight loss and improved aerodynamics as your best options for increasing top speed. For what it is worth, I don't believe that a hardtail would be comfortable (or safe) at triple digit speeds. Small bumps are large at those speeds. Hardtails are for cruising slowly and trying to look cool on a Friday night. Take a look at all the fast bikes out there if you don't believe me, not one of them is a hardtail... ;)
 
Sorry, I didn't really mean I wanna go faster, I was really going for efficiency and torque...I really wanna shoot from the line

As for what u said about the mufflers, I do have a few leaks and never bothered fixing it cuz I'm going with another set anyways, now I've been advised, I could try high temperature silicone from Canadian tire, now is this gasket maker? Cuz I can't seem to find silicone

Now gas wise, I go with 94 octane from petro canada most of the time
 
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If you want more off the line and quickness go up a few teeth on your rear sprocket. You will loose top end speed but you will get there a lot faster.
 
Like Chris said, changing gearing will get you the "off the line" and "in gear" acceleration you are looking for. There aren't a lot of gearing choices (e.g. 3 front and 2 rear sprockets for DOHC bikes), but you can do the math and determine which gears you'd like. www.jtsprockets.com will have all their gears listed with the resulting ratios. A smaller diameter rear tire is another option as well.

I use Permatex Ultra Copper silicone sealant on exhaust system joints. It lasts.

As Lou suggested previously, stay away from Petro-Canada's (Sunoco's) 94! It has WAY too much ethanol in it! I prefer Shell Gold, and have used Esso and UltraMar as well.
 
Ethanol was a substitute to replace mtbe as a octane booster and burn cleaner.Unfortunately it destroys everything that's rubber and doesn't have a very long shelf life cause its alcohol.Over all generaly our older engines are suitable to burn it efficiently.I miss the mbte but its a major pollution source of ground water.If you can find it Tululine makes a good octane booster.
 
In addition to what Scorpio said, ethanol absorbs moisture from the air. And this results in corrosion. Especially in the tiny passages and brass carb components like jets and floats.

Our bikes don't require high octane fuel unless the engine has been modified with a higher compression ratio. Toluene will boost the octane of the fuel, but it is a very strong solvent that can attack some rubber. Best to avoid playing backyard chemist unless you really know what you are doing... Which is why I'm not going to mention Acetone as a fuel additive. ;)
 
Acetone might be easier to find than the above chemical that I mentioned.Its beeter than any off the shelf octain booster you can buy.Both chemicals can be found if you want a back yard octane booster,you just have to search.Ftr I just run efree from my local boat marina.
 
Ok, so this has gotten pretty hardcore with the chemistry, I kno it's not simple to make a bike go faster but I'm really going for efficiency and mileage n whatnot...anyways where I'm starting right now is the electrical and air filter
I'm going with what I'm assuming is called pod filters? Please forgive me if I call something by the wrong name, I'm just getting into this and learning lots
And going for the rat look... I want to put all the electrical components into one small/compact compartment, so would this process involve rewiring and substituting electrical stuff? Cuz I'm very simple understanding of electricals
So...yeah compact electrical and "pod filters"
Pod filters, I'd just have to remove all the plastic stuff and install them right on the carbs right?
 
Pod filters, I'd just have to remove all the plastic stuff and install them right on the carbs right?

Wrong. If you change from the stock air filters you will have to re-jet the carbs. You will be in for a lot of testing and tuning. And you will have to deal with the crankcase vent. I won't recommend pods to anyone who has limited experience.

As for the rat look - it is your bike, do what you want with it. But, don't expect a buyer, your insurance company, or anyone else to appreciate your efforts. When you go to sell the bike, it will be an issue. A stock bike is worth more than a modified bike, and rat bikes are priceless. I'd suggest thinking long and hard before proceeding...
 
I appreciate your "warning" on customizing my bike

I plan on keeping this bike til I'm done
I plan on learning plenty this winter and hope to install many fun things on my bike
I kno that many people upgrade their bikes over the years, going up in engine size, and should I decide to go that way, I'd still keep my 400, because she goes fast enough. Keeping her performing tip top is all I really want, going with these little custom things r just me being a boy playing with his toys
 
Theres another backyard octain booster that' works and is readily available at most hardware store xylene.Warning if you use any of these home made booster no more than 5% mix in your tank.It will boost your octain to like 95ron whatever that means,just something I read recently.Since Im looking for some boost for my truck.
 
What kind help are you needing?Pods the advice I can give you is don't skimp on cost by a good quality filter use the stock air tubes to connect them.If you decide to connect direct to the carbs make sure your filters have no inner lip inside as they block air passages inside your carbs.
You will have rejet your carbs if you go that route,theres plenty of threads here that cover that topic.
 
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