Oil out one exhaust lower rpm high load

I lapped all the valves, i replaced all 4 seals, and one of the guides, (no more signs of oil out the valves... i figure on the other guides, if it ain't broke.) The first time i rebuilt the engine i had the cylinders bored and honed for .5 over, new rings and new pistons. Compression (my tester kinda sucks) was 135 on the left side thats running well, and 140 in the right thats running poorly.

I think i need to do a leak down test or something but i'm now at school where i don't have any special tools.

Thanks thus far for all the responses, i feel like i must be maddening... because i know I'm losing my mind.
 
With new over size pistons and seals you should have replace all the guides:wink2: Your compression should be much higher than what you have. Did you replace the oil seal that goes in the block? It's on the right side of the engine and if its bad or gone you will get oil leaking in the combustion chamber.
 

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That would make no difference both of mine are kick only and have 150+:shrug:
 
So I havent learned anything other than the pep boys tool rental compression gauges suck. I bought the last .50 over rings on eBay for an xs360, because they weren't too expensive I figure I'll do the rings on that cylinder again. Only thing is I dont have a hone tool so I gotta find a shop in Venice that can do it.
 
How many times do you kick the bike over per compression test?

Are you experienced with installing pistons/rings? I'm just wondering if you staggered the ring gaps 120 degrees apart. Did you get the direction and order of the rings right?

Did you try doing a "wet" compression test?
 
Ive been kicking the bike over until i saw the highest number on the needle, and the tests have been dry. I installed the rings 180 opposed to each other on the 25 degree slant as per the yamaha fsm... should i have changed that? I followed the yamaha fsm pretty close the first round. I think the compression test is pretty hopeless since i don't have access to a decent gauge at the moment. The rental one was giving me around 60 psi and the connection on the hose was spinning on its connector. So needless to say im looking for a new gauge. I'll give the old rings one more shot, but i figure i have the new set of rings on order and they are a good think to keep backup anyways because apparently they are getting harder and harder to find in the correct oversize.

Can i rotate the rings in the cylinder without needing a hone?

Ill pull it apart this weekend and take pictures, is there anything to look for/ i could post to be more helpful?
 
Its a 77 xs360, the manual is for xs400 and xs360's but the year is listed. I however don't think xs360's were made for very long so i think it is a relevant manual.
 
The idea with the ring gaps is that they are not lined up. As long as yours are spread out I think they will be fine.

You should try a wet compression test next.

You noticed the UP markings on the rings, right?
 
foppert said:
So I havent learned anything other than the pep boys tool rental compression gauges suck. I bought the last .50 over rings on eBay for an xs360, because they weren't too expensive I figure I'll do the rings on that cylinder again. Only thing is I dont have a hone tool so I gotta find a shop in Venice that can do it.
Click to expand...

Did you do both sides at the same time? You should always do the same to both at the same time. It will keep things balanced:)
 
I did do both at the same time, however this time I only have found one set of rings so far. It has been less than 100 miles on the previous ring and hone. I was hoping to get away with doing only the bad side this time based on how recent the last job was. I am scanning fleabay for more rings however.
 
With only 100miles on them there should be no reason to have it go bad unless they are broken or something else:confused:
 
So i have the whole engine apart again, i am triple checking the rings because at this point i am positive it is not the head. The top ring on the right side looks more skuffed than the one on the left. Hard to tell much more than that, I can take a picture if it would help.

I was triple checking the rings if they were in upside down, and i can saw the lower compression rings are not, the uppers i cannot see any mark on either left or right... and i think the oil ones never had a mark.

The cylinders themselves still show the non directional marks from the previous hone, and no deep scratches. There is one point on the right side that looks a bit different than the rest, but it is still smooth when i run my finger over it. I can take a picture if it would help.

A note is during the 100 miles there were periods where the bike was run with leaky intake boots so maybe i burned the right side rings? How could i tell?

Other notes, when i take the alternator cover off i get oil... All of it doesn't matter if the bike is on a center stand or not. When i took the center stand off this time the oil looked like it had metal shaving sparkles in it. This could be due to the cam gear fiasco i had earlier but it is scares me to still see it.
 
Alternator cover or timing cover? I get oil out timing covert on kick stand but not center stand. Oil with alternator cover off is inevitable (as the oil gallery includes stator and field coil)

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Alternator cover, from what i read i thought it was supposed to get some but not all. Begs the question how you are supposed to time these things without making a huge mess.
 
Not much oil will come out with the 4 bolt cover removed but with the alt cover off it will drain all the oil over time.
 
I take the gas tank off and lean mine against the work bench. On the center stand not much will come out, with a small lean to the side opposite the kickstand pretty much no oil comes out. I just put some aluminum foil over the header to keep it tidy.

I guess this method does require that you're very certain what cycle the engine is in because it's difficult to see inside the right side of the engine to look at the valves. If, however, your bike is timed already (even poorly) you won't really have to move anything very far. You'll be quite close to the correct (compression) cycle already.
 

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