keep the stock ones, the pods mess up your mixture in your carbs and you would have to re-jet (which is hard to get right). Just don't, stock is good. Only once you've got everything sorted out, you can consider taking on jobs like that
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Please help! My '77 XS has ignition problems
- Thread starter 77 XS360
- Start date
If it were me, I would make the bike run (as I been doing to mine for over 2 years!!) before considering chopping, hacking, customizing etc…..why spend the money on pods and jets and mufflers if the bike needs carb. diaphragms or whatever. I cleaned my carbs over 10 times…my advice when you do it….over kill, clean use air, be gentle on poking and prodding, etc…screw ups cost you $$$ and time, clean and soak, and make sure you get into everywhere, not just the easy to get at places…it takes nothing to make the bike run poor, or not at all. I soaked my carbs in pine sol full strength overnight, strong stuff. read others posts…..
original air cleaners are fine for now, but be ready to do some work, You have to do it in order, remover air box covers, screw that holds them then loosen the rubber intake (hose clamps) work out the air boxes, then loosen one of the clamps in the center of the rubber air intakes and they split, and the crankcase breather is below you can usually pull it off with your hands….This is all tight and a PITA! but how it has to be to get to the carbs. ….try to be patient work slow.after you get the carbs loose, remove the throttle cable last (and install it first)
If you want the real (shit sandwich , not my quote) of it all….. The bike has to be all together and working as it should to work right, by that I mean, the carbs have to be right and the jets need to be clean and right and the filters need to be right and the exhaust needs to be right….if they are all stock they match, if not, you have issues…..and there can be no vacuum leaks….check the rubber intakes from the carbs leading into the motor, they go bad and are not the cheapest, but must haves!
original air cleaners are fine for now, but be ready to do some work, You have to do it in order, remover air box covers, screw that holds them then loosen the rubber intake (hose clamps) work out the air boxes, then loosen one of the clamps in the center of the rubber air intakes and they split, and the crankcase breather is below you can usually pull it off with your hands….This is all tight and a PITA! but how it has to be to get to the carbs. ….try to be patient work slow.after you get the carbs loose, remove the throttle cable last (and install it first)
If you want the real (shit sandwich , not my quote) of it all….. The bike has to be all together and working as it should to work right, by that I mean, the carbs have to be right and the jets need to be clean and right and the filters need to be right and the exhaust needs to be right….if they are all stock they match, if not, you have issues…..and there can be no vacuum leaks….check the rubber intakes from the carbs leading into the motor, they go bad and are not the cheapest, but must haves!
So I have been doing some work on the 360 lately and have eliminated a few of the possible reasons that it may not be starting. I throughly cleaned my carbs and replaced the ignition points and spark plugs and my bike will still not start.
There are a few more problems that I believe could possibly be causing the failure to start. I checked the fuse box and noticed that one of the metal clips that holds the cylinder fuse is very loose. The loose clip is the one that I am holding onto with the needle nose pliers in the first picture.
The second picture is of a stray snap connector that isn't connected to anything. Does anyone know where I should connect this?
Finally, I took a picture of the coils because I wasn't sure if they were properly hooked up and thought someone here would be able to tell if they were or not.
There are a few more problems that I believe could possibly be causing the failure to start. I checked the fuse box and noticed that one of the metal clips that holds the cylinder fuse is very loose. The loose clip is the one that I am holding onto with the needle nose pliers in the first picture.
The second picture is of a stray snap connector that isn't connected to anything. Does anyone know where I should connect this?
Finally, I took a picture of the coils because I wasn't sure if they were properly hooked up and thought someone here would be able to tell if they were or not.
Attachments
the fuse box is a common cause for non-starting. Repair, or better, replace it, and see what happens 
no idea about coils but that blue stuff looks weird
no idea about coils but that blue stuff looks weird
I'm not sure about how original the wiring is but if it's from the factory then the little red collar COULD mean that the blue wire connects to red. I would try and confirm this on a wiring diagram of your bike (there are several on this Forum and one might be yours). If not with a diagram, then probably someone on here will know for sure.
It looks like there is a double red receptacle just below the loose wire with one side conveniently open, but again, I'd confirm with a diagram or experienced advice first.
As to your ignition fuse, try diagnosing if this is the problem by using clamps to temporarily make a good connection through the fuse. If that solves it then you know that the new ignition box will be the permanent answer.
TimmyT
XS400 Addict
I read on here before that someone else could not get their bike to start until they rotated the advanced timing plate to the correct position. They attempted firing it with the mounting screws loosened and rotated the plate until everything fired right. I dont think my bike could have those issues as I just made sure the advanced timing plate screws were seated over the little rust spots on the plate where they have been set for the past 30+ years. Also every time you move this plate you will have to re-adjust points gaps.
Until you take your carbs apart and check everything there is no way of knowing they are in working order, stuck needle or improper float adjustments are common issues. If the engine turns over and you have spark then somewhere in the carb or connections is a likley issue (including set up of idle and sync). A volt meter and continuity tester will go a long way in making sure your electrical in order and assist in iscolating any potential issues past what is apparent to the naked eye. More photos and info always helps us wrap our mind around a potential issue.
Who knows maybe the killswitch wont dissengage?
Until you take your carbs apart and check everything there is no way of knowing they are in working order, stuck needle or improper float adjustments are common issues. If the engine turns over and you have spark then somewhere in the carb or connections is a likley issue (including set up of idle and sync). A volt meter and continuity tester will go a long way in making sure your electrical in order and assist in iscolating any potential issues past what is apparent to the naked eye. More photos and info always helps us wrap our mind around a potential issue.
Who knows maybe the killswitch wont dissengage?
