Putting it back together - need help

I have another question, so i'm bumping this thread.
My starter relay is toast I think. I tried everything to get this thing to crank over, and got absolutely no noise. Checked all the wires, grounds, etc. and nothing. then finally one time it just happened, and then never again after that.
I used a voltmeter to start tracing wires and it looks like the wires out of the starter relay have nothing. I opened it up and it looks like one of the little wires in the relay are broken.
Soooo, my question is do you guys know anything about starter relay compatibility? My buddy has an OEM one from a 1980 cb650. They aren't too expensive, but at this point i'm in more $$$ than I had originally planned.

And another, is the rear brake like switch pretty universal from bike to bike or year to year? Again, it's a $8 part on ebay, but I'd like to save if I can.
 
Brake switches functions are universal, but the way they mount might not be, so you might have to drill a hole or two to get it mounted.

As far as the starter relay. Im not sure, but I would guess that they are interchangeable. I don't see any reason why they wouldn't be.
 
Personally I am one of those people that Love Deep Fried Turkeys, so I can do mine outside, like a turkey. But I use a smaller pan, about a 6 quart pan size? You want the level of the liquid to be about the over the top of the carb you got. Then you want some space in there to push it from side to side, and to roll it over occasionally. One of the many post on doing this did say it was okay to use a water/lemon juice combination. The key elements are boiling, and the acid of the citrus juice. (Lemon or vinegar) neither are harsh enough to eat the finish, but acidic enough to take a bite out of the varnish gas. Once you’re done, take out, and rinse it out with water, so that what’s left of the finish doesn't disappear. I supose you could do it inside, I suspect our significant others, might not appreciate the smell of boiling Lemon/vinegar juice in the home. And you need to boil at least 20 minutes per, and if it’s really bad, go for 40 min to an hour of boiling time. Don't forget to use Air to dry out the various passages.
 
What do you do before you do it? I assume the float bowl gasket and choke lever have to come off as they're plastic or rubber
 
Nothing but metal, anything that is not metal, may melt, an make it worse. So I was lucky, I had a small basket, that I could put small items into, and soak in the boiling liquid, I suppose any sort of strainer, would work, nothing with plastic, or rubber.
 
Another wiring question. I was all stoked thinking I had it figured out. Ordered a new flasher relay, got it within 24 hours and went to put it on. Still NOTHING! Not a single noise, no crank over, no lights, nothing. The battery I have is fully charged.
Any other ideas/recommendations? At this point i'm beyond frustrated and am considering the full rewire route, but that'll cost me more money and time. I just want to ride this bitch.
 
Someone should make prefab wiring kits with all of the wires sorted and cut to approximate size. I know there are a ton of other variables, but I just don't know how to get started. Yes, i've read Drewpy's thread like 15 times, but it's still a bit of an undertaking for someone a little more novice.

does anyone know of a prefab wiring harness other than finding an old stock one on ebay?
thanks!
 
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Someone should make prefab wiring kits with all of the wires sorted and cut to approximate size. I know there are a ton of other variables, but I just don't know how to get started. Yes, i've read Drewpy's thread like 15 times, but it's still a bit of an undertaking for someone a little more novice.

does anyone know of a prefab wiring harness other than finding an old stock one on ebay?
thanks!

Well if I get mine to work (almost done). I can help you. I have everything sorted out. It might cost you a six pack though ha.
 
Also they make wiring harness that are bare bones on mikesxs. The connection are different but thats easy to change.
 
Sounds stupid but check your ground wire. When I put mine in I couldn't get lights or anything and I screwed with the harness for an hour before realizing I never connected the ground. It mounts to the case under the brake sensor on the right side.

The simple shit bites you sometimes!
 
CafeNewB, what model do you have? Under the manuals, or under the wire diagram, you should be able to narrow down the wires, from which one you got power to , and which one is suppose to get power if the right stuff happens. Hope that helps, the diagrams should be under tech, or Sticky to the top of the Garage list.
Tobie
 
I have an 82 maxim, which I believe is the xs400j (someone correct me if the XS400j isn't the exact model for the maxim).

I got it all put together and it started right up one time. I killed it then tried again and blew my main fuse, then made some changes and blew some more fuses.
I have this little voltmeter than I can put where the fuses go to make sure it won't blow anymore fuses next time I try. I just traced a few wires but can't really figure it out.

I think I may know the problem, but it's hard to explain. There are three white wiring going to the regulator ( i think). I snipped all three so I could shorten them. I'm thinking when I put them back together I was careless and didn't connect them to the same wire they were originally connected to. I could undo it and go through all of the possible options, but that's a lot.
For some reason I figured since they were all white and all came to/went from the same place, it wouldn't matter. was I wrong? Looking at the wiring diagram I don't really see why it would matter, but I also don't get wiring diagrams super well.

Any ideas?

And Ksqrly, if you help me i'll give you two 30 racks. A sixer just isn't enough. :)
 
And Ksqrly, if you help me i'll give you two 30 racks. A sixer just isn't enough.

Sounds good. I better make sure mine is running properly before I promise any real help. I think my harness should work but no guarantees until it is all hooked up.
 
I think I may know the problem, but it's hard to explain. There are three white wiring going to the regulator ( i think). I snipped all three so I could shorten them. I'm thinking when I put them back together I was careless and didn't connect them to the same wire they were originally connected to. I could undo it and go through all of the possible options, but that's a lot.
For some reason I figured since they were all white and all came to/went from the same place, it wouldn't matter. was I wrong? Looking at the wiring diagram I don't really see why it would matter, but I also don't get wiring diagrams super well.

Really should preview Drewpies Re-Wire clinic, posted on the XS400 home page, and under the Tech tab, on top this page. Anytime your re-joining wires that belong to the alternator circuit, you want to use Drewpies method of adding a little solder, to the connector.

Okay, the 3 white wires, come from the alternator, and goes to 2 different plastic connectors. then finally hits the rectifier. Our alternators are considered 3 phase alternators, each wire = 1 phase. The rectifier, has 5 wires, a ground, and a red or white wire (varies per model) . The Rectifier takes the alternators Alternating currents (A/C) and turns the energy to Direct Current (D/C) those diodes only lets energy pass one direction. Then in cooperation with the Voltage reg, it doesn't let the power get over the 14.5 volts. and fry out your battery.

So you are right. :thumbsup: The white wires do the same exact thing. so it doesn't matter. how ever, if your troubleshooting your alternator, you will need to get readings from each pair combination. so when you get there, let us know, or search, we have posted the answers.

by the way, I used this website to make sure I wasn't full of **it!
http://www.dansmc.com/electricaltesting.htm
 
Do the floats themselves have to come off or can I boil them? I removed the top and diaphragms, and bowls. Does the connecting tube have to go? Can't get the carbs separated lol. Lastly, how does the choke knob come off or can that boil?
 
Everything should come off, You want to make it so there is no where for gunk to hide. with that said, you do want to be careful taking off the pin on those towers. Take your time, get the right tool, and don't rush. Last thing you want to do is start a thread, on how easy your carb float tower/pin holder/pivot spot snapped off when I used the 5 pound sledge hammer. Get a small hammer, and a punch that is skinny enough to fit in the hole. Small raps, easy raps, it wil come out, and use some WD40. this stage of the game, you can use what every chemical loose it up stuff you can find. I might have used a pliers, but I am not going to recommend it, not til its ready to fall out.

Good luck
Tobie
 
http://www.amckayltd.com/carbguide.pdf

If you have ran into this PDF file, this one is really good. remember ours is a BS34. Get your stats off our site, here, some of the stats may be slanted towards our big brother bike, the XS650. Then some of us here on the site, (not me) have also put Youtube vids on how to do some of these things.

good luck
Tobie
 
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