No, once you know your carbs it takes 10 minutes or less from removal to bike running. I have the cheap emgo pod filters and a very unrestricted exhaust and I am running 2 sizes up on the pilot and 3 sizes up on the main. Another guy on here, mcrowell75, has pod filters and a more tame exhaust and is running 1 size up on the pilot, and 2 sizes up on the main with some adjustment to the slide needle. I have not gone farther than my driveway, so I cannot say how well my bike is truly running other than that it sounds fine now, doesn't backfire, and revs smoothly.
People have all sorts of wacky methods for guessing at air fuel ratios. The way the bike acts when stationary and being revved to different rpms can show large discrepancies; rpms hang, bike backfires, etc.
Once the bike seems like it is running fairly well you can synch the carbs using a manometer. A manometer can be made for like 10 bucks using wood, vinyl tubing, and zip ties. I have not done it yet, but I am guessing the air flow is "synched" by adjusting the butterfly flaps via the screw/spring mechanism that links them together between each carb. I am not sure if they are synched using the fuel screw to get a more precise mixture; it's something for me to explore further.
Once you're synched you can test drive the bike and see if you "feel" any flat spots, hesitation, bogging down, etc. Putting the engine under load probably helps reveal more fueling problems.
Then there is plug chopping and reading spark plugs. Apparently, the color/condition of the plug can give clues as to the a/f ratio and they can also be chopped in half to reveal, I guess, a smoke ring that forms on the inside of the electrode.
If you have a wideband you can essentially skip all this bs and just measure things properly
Jetting is analogous to putting bigger injectors in your car.