Will this battery work?

Excess Impulse

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I know this may be an old topic, I have searched the forums and found some 2 year old posts, and I'm still not sure of what I need. I have a 1980 XS400 SG, and I plan to run kick start only. I have seen pictures of a battery similar to this others have used (Drewpy, XS Chris) and wanted to confirm this will work for me. I dont have any led's, and want to run 10w turn signals, tail/brake, all other lights stock. My other question is do you just put quick disconnects onto the battery cable ends as these are not bolt on terminals.

http://www.batterysharks.com/Yuasa-NP2-3-12-p/np2.3-12_b12-2.3.htm
 
On batteries like those you need to know it's charge rate or cycle voltage. Some are low, 13.5volts which our bikes will fry in no time. Others are much higher 14.5-15v Those can take the output of our bike. As for connections, I use what the battery has on them. My kick only 80 uses a 1.3ah but I have smaller than stock 10w turns, led brake and guage/check lights and the stock 30/40w headlamp.
 
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the alarm battery I use is still doing service, but I have to run the lamps on all the time or it will overcharge. (not an issue really)
no turn signals though
 
Thank you both so much! Yes, the link I included is an alarm battery, it's hard to tell from the small picture, looks like it's( floating cycle?) is 12.5-13.6v and cycle is 14.4-15v. I ditched the stock turn signals, the ones I've considered are 10w,I don't have a tail light picked out yet, all else is stock, and the headlight should be on at all times. I tried to find the exact battery I saw in a picture( I think of Drewpy's) but this one I linked has the push on quick disconnects. Can I get a terminal for it that will work with the battery cables, or do I need to keep looking for another battery? I'm trying to avoid the high price Anti-Gravity battery(will do if that's the only option) and need a small battery to fit in a pan under the seat. I need to find one so I can start fabricating the seat and tray to hold all electrics.
 
Thank you both so much! Yes, the link I included is an alarm battery, it's hard to tell from the small picture, looks like it's( floating cycle?) is 12.5-13.6v and cycle is 14.4-15v. I ditched the stock turn signals, the ones I've considered are 10w,I don't have a tail light picked out yet, all else is stock, and the headlight should be on at all times. I tried to find the exact battery I saw in a picture( I think of Drewpy's) but this one I linked has the push on quick disconnects. Can I get a terminal for it that will work with the battery cables, or do I need to keep looking for another battery? I'm trying to avoid the high price Anti-Gravity battery(will do if that's the only option) and need a small battery to fit in a pan under the seat. I need to find one so I can start fabricating the seat and tray to hold all electrics.

I just used the spade connectors on the battery, no issues at all and I've been over some stinking pot holes where my coccyx suffered
 
Sweet! I was wondering if I could just cut the old battery cable terminal off, and splice on a new end to connect to the battery. At first I thought I needed a heavier connector, but then realized if not drawing a heavy current to run the starter, then a smaller cable connector should be no problem. This is awesome news to me, as now I can save at least $150 bucks (by not buying a higher price battery) and can order the alarm battery and start working on this project again! Thanks for your replies!
 
Same kinda battery I've been eyeing up aswell!

Kinda worried now from what drewpy said as I'm not planning on running a headlight on mine so sounds like the battery's gonna overcharge

Back to the drawing board for me then

If anyone can chime in on the subject let me know as battery's seriously confuse me with these things haha, Would much rather run batteryless but way too much hassle for that on these things
 
My 1.3ah battery has over 5k miles on it in this bikes and it was used in another bike for 2k miles before that. Never had any overcharge issues. I do have the stock head light still. Make sure the battery gets plenty of ventalation around it. Putting it in a tight tray or in a closed seat/tail can cause it to overheat. Mine is open to the air.
 

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Was planning on making a box to mount it and the majority of the other electrics under the swinger but leaving 1 side/top open Havnt quite planned it out as of yet
Can't make the box till I find a suitable battery so I know the measurements

Only light I'm gonna be running is a rear light/brake light really, might change if I find a headlight I like but for the time being it's gonna be a summer/good day bike

Op: sorry about thread hijack! Seemed a good place to post to save 2 threads getting the same info posted
 
There are may threads on this subject already:laugh: But it still keeps getting asked.
 
Exactly my point last thing I wanna do is add another one with the same questions in as I know it annoys members seeing the same questions over and over! Haha
 
Make sure the battery gets plenty of ventalation around it. Putting it in a tight tray or in a closed seat/tail can cause it to overheat. Mine is open to the air.[/QUOTE]

Good to know, I hadn't considered that. I noticed your seat sits on top of some spacers, so there must be an air gap between seat and frame. I'm not sure yet about how I will attach seat to frame, but I want it fairly easy to detach, and I was really planning on building an enclosed box. Do you think drilling some vent holes in an enclosed box would give enough air to prevent overheating?
 
I use stock seat mounts and a modified stock seat. Holes will help, but more air the better:wink2:
 
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I just realized, I can make a 2 sided compartment, heavily slotted on the battery side, electronics on the other. Actually none of the original electrics are totally enclosed, so in theory, a well vented enclosure for everything but the rectifier( or regulator, whichever the finned one is) should be ok, with the battery having it's separate, more ventilated area.
I did search the threads, and the most info I found still left me with unanswered questions, so I appreciate the replies, and putting up with my limited knowledge on these bikes
 
I just realized, I can make a 2 sided compartment, heavily slotted on the battery side, electronics on the other. Actually none of the original electrics are totally enclosed, so in theory, a well vented enclosure for everything but the rectifier( or regulator, whichever the finned one is) should be ok, with the battery having it's separate, more ventilated area.
I did search the threads, and the most info I found still left me with unanswered questions, so I appreciate the replies, and putting up with my limited knowledge on these bikes

mine is fully enclosed in closed cell foam as vibration kills it too.

don't forget to let your Reg Rec hang out in the breeze
 
mine is fully enclosed in closed cell foam as vibration kills it too.

don't forget to let your Reg Rec hang out in the breeze

Good advice, maybe some closed cell foam or thin rubber for the battery. This may sound dumb, but is the regulator/rectifier the same thing? The finned one with 3 white wires, 1 each green,tan,red,black is the voltage regulator? Small triangular shaped one with green,tan,black wire is the rectifier? Do these both need plenty of air? I know the large one with more wires and cooling fins needs air.
 
You have it all correct on the components. The regulator doesn't get too hot, as long as it's mounted onto metal that's more than enough of a heat-sink. The rectifier does get hot and needs some air over it (the finned part)
 
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