I mean I'm up for anything really, I tried downsizing the battery like that other thread says and it just drained it in a matter of a few days. And sk I bought a new one and it seems to just drop voltage wise daily little by little since I can't get a full charge going on... Should I just replace the stator?
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Need urgent help!!!
- Thread starter mattg666
- Start date
I'd suggest reading the service manual and going through the tests before you start throwing $ at the bike.
How long is your ride? Not that it matters, without electric start you shouldn't be having any troubles, even if it is only a 5 minute ride. Your charging system obviously isn't working right.
How long is your ride? Not that it matters, without electric start you shouldn't be having any troubles, even if it is only a 5 minute ride. Your charging system obviously isn't working right.
my ride is only 15 minutes tops. and i figured i should be able to run a smaller battery. but that didnt turn out so well. and its a new reg/rec i have on it so i figure the only thing it COULD be is the stator...
I doubt it. First thing I would recommend is a battery tender device. (to keep you battery charged.
Second thing when you have time, is to print out the eletric test parts of the manual. If you have a new-er model (80-81)((List your bike in the Signature line part of the control panel.))(((So tired people like me don't have to guess)))) There is a extra chapter in the Haynes manual that covers some extra electrical testing in the back of the book. Go though all the test. (even the new reg/rec) perhaps the start with the magnet test. (yesterday I was doing my Valves, didn't realize that I left the key on, I took off the Yamaha plate for the adj crankshaft, the Lugnut Tee handle I was using to rotate the crankshaft, was drawn to the bolt, by the magnetic attraction. I turned the key off, and it lost its attraction, off topic but it was cool).
The stators don't need to be re-wound, but quite frequently part of the wire will go bad. so just replace what is shot. with a quality wire, and solder the connection point.
Hmm... I don't think it will "shunt excess power to ground". If you take any permanent magnet motor and spin it (which will make it into a generator) - it will spin without much effort. Now if you connect motor wires to a lamp - it will be much more difficult to spin, and if you connect wires together - it is almost impossible to spin.
I believe regulator will "unload" or disconnect generator as voltage goes too high.
Actually, some do. Other designs short one of the stator windings to cause the voltage to drop. Again, wasting energy. If the stator is simply unloaded, the voltage will spike in it. When it is reconnected, such as when the load increases or the voltage drops low enough to require it, this will cause a momentary spike in the system voltage that can destroy electronics and LED's. A bike with points, and no solid state electronics can use a PMA, if one is willing to accept the inherent flaws and limitations.
Bottom line, PMA's are not suitable for modern bikes. Thus they are not used much any more. The OP would be better served diagnosing and repairing the existing charging system.
Bottom line, PMA's are not suitable for modern bikes. Thus they are not used much any more. The OP would be better served diagnosing and repairing the existing charging system.
ok so wouldnt a capacitor help with these spikes? and also, if nobody they suck then why are there so many 650s running flawlessly with them? and then also my ironhead has magneto points. but thats a different beast. my point is, they work. they work well with a 650. why cant they work well with a 400? and by well i mean with the basics...no turn signals or nuetral lights or back lit gauges or anything like that ... just a headlight and tail light...
http://yamahaclub.com/forums/topic/29735-xs400-battery-eliminator/
http://www.motorcycleforum.com/showthread.php?t=99353
http://www.bobberforum.com/forums/showthread.php?tid=290
http://www.dansmc.com/electricaltesting.htm
https://www.google.com/search?q=xs4...l5.11851j0j4&sourceid=chrome&es_sm=0&ie=UTF-8
None of it was diffinative, but maybe useful. Good luck, keep us in the loop. let us know how it works out.
http://www.motorcycleforum.com/showthread.php?t=99353
http://www.bobberforum.com/forums/showthread.php?tid=290
http://www.dansmc.com/electricaltesting.htm
https://www.google.com/search?q=xs4...l5.11851j0j4&sourceid=chrome&es_sm=0&ie=UTF-8
None of it was diffinative, but maybe useful. Good luck, keep us in the loop. let us know how it works out.
On your behalf, I emailed the company ...
From their "non-compatible" page:
" Yamaha - **RD200, 250, 350, and 400 (USA models only)**, XS650, YX600 Radian, XJ750, XJ650, XJ550, Maxim, Seca , WR650
**The RD200, 250, 350, and 400 USA models require battery power to the points,
and the electromagnet rotor windings to work, so the Bat-Pac will not work on
them,. BUT; The later RD400E,F.and G from the UK. and the RD400F&G from Canada
use a magneto CDI, as do the 1980-82 RD350LCs, so they can use the Bat-Pac."
And on their info page, they state that it isn't DOT legal. There is no power when the engine isn't running, so if you stall the engine, the lights go out. Certainly NOT safe on the street!
Just saying...
" Yamaha - **RD200, 250, 350, and 400 (USA models only)**, XS650, YX600 Radian, XJ750, XJ650, XJ550, Maxim, Seca , WR650
**The RD200, 250, 350, and 400 USA models require battery power to the points,
and the electromagnet rotor windings to work, so the Bat-Pac will not work on
them,. BUT; The later RD400E,F.and G from the UK. and the RD400F&G from Canada
use a magneto CDI, as do the 1980-82 RD350LCs, so they can use the Bat-Pac."
And on their info page, they state that it isn't DOT legal. There is no power when the engine isn't running, so if you stall the engine, the lights go out. Certainly NOT safe on the street!
Just saying...
I think I would go AGM before doing that. (if this battery fails ever)
