All over the place...Maxim/Seca build

And cleaned the surface rust off of the rotor.
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I think you may have ruined those valves dude..
?...How so?...used purpose-specific grinding compound, checked that they seat properly after the fact, and the valves kept their "three angled edge"...maybe it is not easy to see in the pictures.
I used the same process for my other build, which we started-up last week and fired-up and worked fine....
...But now you've got me worried.
 
I see what you mean looking at the pictures, but I made sure to keep the 30 and 60 degree surfaces pretty intact but I may have overshot the 1,1mm mark a little. We'll see what gives once I start it up,was planning on new vesrah valves next fall cause the engine might get gpz pistons anyway....live and see...and learn.
Thanks for the heads up I will be mindful of any issues.
 
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Doing some work, nice! I just got around to painting some of the smaller odds and ends on my bike. My next major hurdle is getting the rear hoop and frame straightened out and welded up.
 
Yep, just tidying up bits and pieces, putting everything away in boxes until i'm finished with the Seca brat build and then it will be on to my cafe...getting anxious to start.
 
Hey there, I'm about ready to paint my engine covers/cases and I was just wondering how you went about doing so? It's pretty cold out where I live, and the paint I'm using says to spray at around 20°C. I was thinking I could keep the paint can warm indoors until I'm ready to spray and heat the part in an oven beforehand. Thanks! Those rearsets look sweet by the way!
 
I used VHT paint and followed the instructions to a "T", oven cured the parts a per instructions on the can,then wrapped the parts individually and set them aside for thirty days.Preparation work:cleaning,cleaning,cleaning some more...then sand blasting (while avoiding mating surfaces)...then...cleaning,cleaning,cleaning....then put the parts in the oven before painting to offgas and get the remaining petroleum based residue off of any parts,clean some more.
If you do sandblast, know that the sand WILL clog oil passages, ruin any ball or needle bearings on the way, but I found it was the easiest way to get the surfaces roughed-up and reach in those hard to get to spots like between the fins on the cylinders/head.
Pretty happy with the results, as it did not scratch whilst moving the engine around during ssembly,it is not bullet proof but touch-ups are easy and quick cause you always keep a can handy.
 
With the bratstyle Seca almost finished, I got the Maxim in the garage and started to tear her apart not without regret but with over two grand invested into my café project I had to get on with it.
 
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Well, tearing her apart was a good thing, a lot of little things were wrong without me knowing,
Every grommet on there was cooked, the wire straps were brittle as f..k, some relays had their rubber holders cracked and we're flapping about, the brake lines were original...yep...original although not brittle but still...
The orange bump stop on the monoshock turned to powder.
The underside of the exhaust was a mess of welds, patches and holes
Seal/gaskets were seeping oil...
So ya...twas time
 
The Canada post Santa And His Brother FedEx Santa came by my house today.
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Super stoked about the Acewell, pondered about a cheap chinese combo gauge for a while but figured that Acewell would be the way to go.
 
With the brat almost done,I decided to give some time to my project.
Put on my new allballs steering bearings in, they are great, easy to install, a few gentle taps gets them in.
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