not so new build restor job

no wires pinching or bare coz thats what i checked last week, so i guess that narrows it down to overcharging because it was fine ticking over for about 20 mins with a new bulb last week and nothing happened:wtf: took it out today and bulb went:(:banghead:, what and how would i check to see if it is overcharging and also what would i be looking to replace:shrug:
 
To check for proper charge, hook a multimeter to the battery terminals. Should read about 12.5 volts at idle, Rev the engine, by about 2000-2500 rpms the voltage should rise to 14.5 volts, as you rev higher than that, it should never go higher than 14.5 volts.
If it does check the wires from the regulator to the alternator. A short from the green wire to ground will put max current through the field coil of the alternator. This maxes out the alternator output.
If you find the wiring ok then check the regulator. Your repair manual should tell you how.
Any voltage above about 15 volts will start to blow lights. The fuses protect from amperage not voltage. That's why the fuses are ok.
Leo
 
ok i traced all wires and no short or grounding anywhere, tested the battery and at idle was toping out at 16.89v, followed manual and checked inside regulator and it was wound all the way in and i mean all the way really tight, everything looked in really good nick inside:) so hooked up meter and started to unwind adjuster screw and got it to where it tops out at 14.58v:D (which according to the manual is within tolerance) but dont know what revs thats at as have no tacho:doh:,
put in new bulb and sat on drive reving the nuts off her and light didnt even flicker yey:thumbsup:
so decided to take her out for a little ride and have found another problem now shes really sluggish and the revs are all over the place:wtf:. i think maybe ive gone to far the other way and un wound the reg to much, could this affect the spark?:shrug: i know it sounds dumb but the manual doesnt cover this question, any help very much appreciated,
cheers.
 
I doubt it would affect the coils but, you may have affected the battery and might need to renew it as the plates would have been affected.
 
When you adjust the regulator, having the cover off effects the adjustment. Measure the voltage with the cover on.
Make an adjustment, put cover on, check voltage. Adjust so voltage with the cover on is at about 14.5 to 14.7 volts at higher revs.
The voltage can effect the strength of the spark. With points the amount you adjusted the reg you shouldn't see much difference.
Leo
 
cheers guys:) will look at it on next week as i think the missus is getting a bit miffed at me constantly popping out to the bike:( and im pretty sure it wont go down to well if i do it over xmas. will let you know the out come
 
My fuses used to blow all the time and realized it was my main fuse(20amp) in the sleeve back by the tail light might be your prob
 
Our alternators put out AC voltage that the rectifier changes to DC. The strength of the AC volage is controled by the DC current through the feild coil. This current is controled by the regulator. The regulator uses battery voltage to tell when the voltage is low and to provide the current through the feild coil.
I think thr AC voltage reg you found is more for power supplies in a piece of electronic eguipment.
Leo
 
I think that's for a PMA system that just runs the ignition and lights, Try looking up those bikes listed and look at how the alternator is wired up. A place like boats.net has parts fiches, look in them to see the alternator and the electrical parts.
Leo
 
cheers for the help guys, got it all sorted and now have a new problem:doh:

left cylinder not getting warm let alone hot so took carbs off again:banghead: and completely stripped and found the piston in the left carb will go up but wont come back down in its bore, so cleaned them to within an inch of there bloody lives and it moves freely when no top on carb but as soon as i button it all up it seizes again, if i bang the carbs firmly on the base then it drops down but cant do that while riding can i ???.
and being a complete twat didnt read the section in the manual about the spring and ball in the choke slide so am now having to order them but at £3 for both bits i can live with that, its just the sticking piston thats stumped me and have completely run out of funds so cant afford to spend £60-£100 getting a new one.:shrug:
any help greatly appreciated.
 
check the diaphram, sounds like it has a tear! or has the spring coil bound?

As far as banging it to get it down, surley the engine vibration will take care of that!
 

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