My bike will sometimes have trouble idling when its cold and the choke is off. Its because you need to set the idle and fuel mix when the bike is at operating temps or else it wont be optimal.
The copper color screws should be set like this, screw them in very lightly all the way until they bottom out. Then, back them out about 1 1/2 turns. This will give you a baseline tune. I believe im at 2 turns out right now but you shouldnt go past 3 turns. Bike should stall when screwed all the way in, if not then your pilot is too big. If you need to go more than 3 turns out, you need bigger pilot jets. I would check these screws first as people sometimes tighten them too much and the tip breaks off and gets jammed in the carb body, in this case, you may be toast...
Im not 100% on the order but you should adjust the valves first, then points gaps(if you have them) then timing. Then you can get to the carb settings including getting them synced together with a manometer.
I like my bike bike idling around 1200-1500 rpms. I keep it a bit high because the idle will drop slightly when I have the lights turned on.
I think timing and carb synching should be done at 1000 rpm or else you wont get a good sync and your timing advance wont be where it should be.
