Oils to use?

I'm sorry Mark, I really didn't intend to make you feel so insecure. After all the support I've offered you here since you joined, you should know that I'm not the kind of person you are suggesting I am. I was trying to offer support and advice based on facts. But if you are going to react so negatively, and attack me personally, you'd best prepare yourself for the same in return.

Remember, if it weren't for me and the other good members here, you wouldn't have a running bike. Your tantrum makes me regret my efforts to help you. :mad:
 
Well you've certainly taken every shot at me available. I full and well realize when I break a side cover it's my fault, but damn me for ever complaining about the design! Thank God we got 16VGTIDave to come along and rub it in! How would I ever realize it was my fault?

Granted maybe I was a bit out of line, but you don't seem to miss an opportunity to point out every damn wrong thing I might do.

My point was just that I know of a LOT of people using Standard Mobile One in wet clutch bikes and I know Mobile One standard will not make a clutch slip, regardless of it not being designed for bikes specifically. I've now personally confirmed it; after over 300 miles of hard riding though just about every possible condition my clutch and tranny never operated smoother. I suspect that Mobile One standard would be able to pass the motorcycle standards test, but why would they even bother when they offer motorcycle specific products at a higher cost?

Now, I apologize for my attitude this morning. I was out of line, and it really doesn't matter whether it feels like you love to find flaw in my posts or not, it is not an excuse and maybe that's only my perception. Having a bit of a high stress day for a day off, and out of line is out of line and nobody else's behavior excuses it, so again, I am sorry for being snappy.
 
Well you've certainly taken every shot at me available. I full and well realize when I break a side cover it's my fault, but damn me for ever complaining about the design! Thank God we got 16VGTIDave to come along and rub it in! How would I ever realize it was my fault?

I'm sorry you feel that way. It wasn't my goal to make you feel inferior. I just happened to take offense when you were so aggressive with your criticism of your Maxim, as it reflects on mine and every other Maxim.

Granted maybe I was a bit out of line, but you don't seem to miss an opportunity to point out every damn wrong thing I might do.

I've also offered advice, encouraged, and complimented you and your bike. Please don't forget that.

My point was just that I know of a LOT of people using Standard Mobile One in wet clutch bikes and I know Mobile One standard will not make a clutch slip, regardless of it not being designed for bikes specifically. I've now personally confirmed it; after over 300 miles of hard riding though just about every possible condition my clutch and tranny never operated smoother. I suspect that Mobile One standard would be able to pass the motorcycle standards test, but why would they even bother when they offer motorcycle specific products at a higher cost?

Sure, and a lot of people use Slick50 and other such additives. That doesn't make it 'right'. If it works for you and others, long term, that is terrific. But I've heard enough testimonials in my life to know that they are all worth about the same. As a retired Aircraft Tech I can't bring myself to use an oil that isn't certified appropriately, or to encourage it. Especially when there are other products available that meet specifications.

I'm also sure that automotive Mobil 1 would pass MOST of the tests to achieve MA certification. Except for the addition of the friction modifiers that will effect a wet clutch, and the extreme pressure lubricants for the transmission that aren't in the auto blend.

Why they charge so much more for the motorcycle specific oil is easy to answer: They have to formulate the additive package (R&D), blend it with the base stock, test it (a couple years in the real world as well as lab tests), certify it (about $50K US each time for each test), patent it, produce it, package it, distribute it, and market it. Since it is a low volume product, all these costs have to be carried by the low sales volume. This is why it costs twice what the automotive oil does. Simple economics.

Now, I apologize for my attitude this morning. I was out of line, and it really doesn't matter whether it feels like you love to find flaw in my posts or not, it is not an excuse and maybe that's only my perception. Having a bit of a high stress day for a day off, and out of line is out of line and nobody else's behavior excuses it, so again, I am sorry for being snappy.

Apology accepted, thanks. And I'm sorry as well. My intent was and is not to attack you. I don't know you and have no reason to want to harm you in any fashion (I'm a Canadian, eh!). I just want to do what I can to make sure that this forum continues to be a reliable and valuable resource for everyone who does a search and finds info here, today and in the future. Since I have little else to offer other than knowledge and experience, if that means taking the time to contradict something that you or someone else has written, that is the burden I've chosen to bear. It is my way of paying back everyone who has made this forum such a valuable resource, and my attempt to keep it valuable.
 
No dispute over using a motorcycle rated oil but I have heard some varying opinions as to viscosity. My haynes manual shows 10w40 in one section and 20w50 in another. Just wondering what others are using. Also want some thoughts on synthetic vs conventional. Last year I used Amsoil 10w40 synthetic, this year I bought some Lucas 20w50 conventional but not put it in yet. Sitting on the fence with what to use. Any thoughts?

Well I don`t like to take sides in other peoples discussions but I am with Dave on this one. Besides my annual oil change is the smallest maintenance fee I have on my bike so paying a premium for the two litres of (motorcycle rated) oil I use is no big deal. If and when my engine does crap out on me I`ll know it wasn`t due to neglect or cheeping out. I am still looking for some opinions on viscosity though. 10w40 or 20w50 Any thoughts.
 
.... 10w40 or 20w50 Any thoughts.
I think the right approach would be similar to how we did cars in this climate (5w-30 in the winter and 10w-40 in the summer). In the case of our old bikes, 10w-40 spring and fall and 15 or 20w-50 in the summer?

When the xs400 was invented, they apparently couldn't make 10w-40 or 20w-50. The old manual basically said if it was 41F or below, 20w-40 is too thick and if it is above 59F, 10w-30 is too thin. Presumably, at between 41 and 59, one could use either grade of oil without concern.

I dare say that now that you can buy 10w-40, you could use it all season at our latitude (but not in the southern US or the Outback) and the worst that could happen might be slightly more oil consumption on the hottest days.
20w-50 would be nice in the summer, but around here people with it in their bikes can't always get them to turn over on nice early March or December days. I wish they made 10w-50. I would buy a case of that.
 
.... I wish they made 10w-50. I would buy a case of that.
Well, I was looking at oils the other day, and I think I found something even better for the first and last oil changes (cold temp starts) each season.

The newer fully synthetic ROTELLA T6 5W-40 oil lists JASO-MA compliance on its label. I won't say I can't wait until fall (not after this spring), but when it inevitably and unfortunately does arrive, I look forward to babying my starter motor and battery with some 5W! :thumbsup:
 
It's a synthetic oil, It will maintain it's viscosity better than any dino oil ever could. We can run it all the time, from below freezing to sweltering summer days.

Did you happen to make note of the cost? I'm almost ready for the next oil and filter change...
 
... Did you happen to make note of the cost? I'm almost ready for the next oil and filter change...
Sorry Dave, I did at the time but can't remember now. I do recall thinking it was a fair % higher, T but nearly double than Rotella.
For those wanting to use Dino, I also recall seeing giant tubs of Rotella T (nearly 19 litres) and it worked out to less than $4 a litre.
 
On sale this week @cantire: works out to $3.18/litre.

18.9 litres Shell Rotella T Diesel Motor Oil SAVE 20% - now $59.99 (reg $75.99)
Product # 28-7932-6 - Valid Fri, May 10 – Thu, May 16​
 

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So I should look for the rotella T diesel? What about the yamaha oil at the dealer? Maybe I missed it in among the bitch fest.:laugh:
I wasn't necessarily advising that it be used, just letting people who do use it know where they can get it for $3.18/litre.

I am currently using it and it works great now that the warmer weather is here. Earlier in the spring, when it would go down below freezing overnight, I did not like having in the bike as the starter drew too much juice trying to turn the engine through the thick, cold 15w oil.

When it gets cold again in the fall (if not sooner) I may try the fully synthetic ROTELLA T6 5W-40 oil since JASO-MA compliance is indicated on its label.
 
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I've never used Yamalube. Used Castrol motorcyle oil and a Honda brand I picked up in the States (for half price) a couple of times - and now Rotella. Some other expert who knows will chime in ...
 
I read the whole discussion and I feel like it should be pointed out that a vital factor for the engine is not the price/quality of the oil but the frequency of the change.
Given for sure that it has to be a motorbike oil and it has to be of decent quality (read: semi-synt no thanks) I would very much prefer to change a 5$ oil twice a year then do it once a year with a 10$ oil. That's because even the prettiest oil will wear with time and mileage, no matter what.
This is something I learned on my CRF, a bike considered to be very fragile...0.7 liters for the engine (and 0.6 for the transmission) to be changed every 500 miles, mandatory. Never had a failure and when I opened the engine everything was sparkling and clean.

So in the end I wouldn't look too much at the name on the bottle, the cheapest synthetic oil today is far better than the most expensive lube back in 1982...just make sure to change it when needed (I never exceed 6000Km on any of my bikes, CRF excluded)
 
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