Oils to use?

[Rambo814]

Now that I am almost ready to ride mine I also need to dump the oil, what about Valvoline 4T 4-Stroke Synthetic 10W-40? The bottle say right on it, "Superior Wet Clutch Protection." http://www.walmart.com/ip/Valvoline...etic-Motorcycle-Oil-1-quart-6ct-Case/19514358

 

[Lou Ranger]

Now that I am almost ready to ride mine I also need to dump the oil, what about Valvoline 4T 4-Stroke Synthetic 10W-40? The bottle say right on it, "Superior Wet Clutch Protection." http://www.walmart.com/ip/Valvoline...etic-Motorcycle-Oil-1-quart-6ct-Case/19514358

Looks like it will work fine. But at $7.97 a quart, I'm not sure you will get full value for the extra $4.72 per quart you are spending over the $3.25 RotellaT.

 

[Scorpio1963]

Unless you live where the temp doesnt get above 60* 10-40 is very thin viscosity for these bikes.You would be better of with 15-40 or 20w50

 

[Lou Ranger]

Unless you live where the temp doesnt get above 60* 10-40 is very thin viscosity for these bikes.You would be better of with 15-40 or 20w50

I disagree regarding 10-40 or 15-40. At engine operating temperature, both oils will perform the same (40). The difference will be that on a cold morning, the 15-40 will take longer to flow and provide lubrication than will the 10-40, actually increasing engine wear.
During the heat of a PA summer, a multi-grade ending in 50 will be better since it will be thicker at full operating temperatures. However, to get 50, you usually have to put up with a 20 (20w-50) which means it's way thicker on start-up come late summer, early fall.
The ideal oil for us would be a 5x-50 but no one seems to be able to formulate it.

... what about Valvoline 4T 4-Stroke Synthetic 10W-40? The bottle say right on it, "Superior Wet Clutch Protection." ...

A note of caution. There appears to be two schools of thought on synthetics. Here is an interesting post from a while back regarding how switching to synthetic could open up some leaks where there were none before.

http://www.xs400.com/forum/showthread.php?p=58467#post58467
​

 

[Scorpio1963]

Hey Lou I ran the 10-40 in my bike the viscosity realy got thin especialy in the warmer weather.My bike also seems to run very hot so maybe thats part of the problem.When I was riding it I ran it pretty hard also so I guess its just a preference.I ran the rotela T 3 parts of it and 1 part synthetic 20-50.Bike seem to perform much better and the viscosity was a bit better.I didnt have any problems with the clutches slipping and trans shifted better also.I also dont think you can get by running 10w40 in very warm climates either.We seem to be having summers where the temos continuesly get into the 90* f temp range.

 

[16VGTIDave]

Getting confused by all this banter? Check out http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motor_oil for info on the basic properties of motor oils.

For those considering semi-synthetic oils, don't waste your money. Semi-syns were created by sales and marketing people as a way of selling low quality syn base stocks for a profit. A semi-syn is no better than the dino oil that makes up a majority of the oil blend.

If you think that mixing different oils will give you some special advantage, please state where you received your PHD in Chemical Engineering from and which laboratory you performed your testing in. Don't have a PHD*? Haven't tested your concoction? Enough said...

There is more than enough dis-information available online regarding oils, we don't need to be adding to it here. JASO MA is the only spec of oil recommended for our bikes. Anything else is not recommended. It really is just that simple.

Do you have a favorite brand of JASO MA certified oil? Have you found that it shifted better? Or that your clutch was smoother? Or your bike consumed less of it than another brand? Was your valve noise reduced? Did you get better fuel mileage? This is the kind of information that we need to read about.

Dave
*who doesn't have a PHD in anything, but has spoken at length about motor oils with a PetroChem Engineer who has 50 years experience in Syn lubes and patents in his name to prove it.

 

[xschris]

I run chuck norris sweat in my bike

 

[markjs]

I don't know why anyone would bother with Rotella T if Rotella T6 is certified. The Synthetic is ALWAYS superior to the dino and if both are certified, I know the synthetic is cheap at Walmart, not much more than the conventional. Seems a dumb place to save a few dollars. My next change will be the Rotella T6 5w40 because I am a year round rider and if it's certified, then why not? I may go back to Mobil one for summer or may go with Royal Purple for bikes because my friend with the Harley buys it in bulk to get a price on it.

 

[Nuno]

The ideal oil for us would be a 5x-50 but no one seems to be able to formulate it.

IP used to make a 5W40 called "SBK"...I used to use it on the zx-6r and I liked it (just like the Motul V300 but at a 50% price) but now I'm not able to find it anymore.
Q8 has a 0W50 for motorbikes apparently but I've never seen it anywhere

 

[16VGTIDave]

I don't know why anyone would bother with Rotella T if Rotella T6 is certified. The Synthetic is ALWAYS superior to the dino and if both are certified, I know the synthetic is cheap at Walmart, not much more than the conventional. Seems a dumb place to save a few dollars. My next change will be the Rotella T6 5w40 because I am a year round rider and if it's certified, then why not? I may go back to Mobil one for summer or may go with Royal Purple for bikes because my friend with the Harley buys it in bulk to get a price on it.

I agree with you Mark, but keep in mind that for many of us there is a substantial price difference. What you pay for Rotella T6 synthetic is less than what Canadians pay for conventional Rotella T. And T6 is around $50 for a jug on this side of the boarder, and our currencies are roughly on par!

 

[Lou Ranger]

I agree with you Mark, but keep in mind that for many of us there is a substantial price difference. What you pay for Rotella T6 synthetic is less than what Canadians pay for conventional Rotella T. And T6 is around $50 for a jug on this side of the boarder, and our currencies are roughly on par!

We need to chip in and all ride down and stay at Scorpio's place. On the way home we can each declare $800 worth of 5 gal. pails of T6!
My comment earlier was about the viscosity ratings, not one brand -vs- another or synthetic -vs- dino. My understanding has always been that a multi grade oil performs per the first number when cold. That's why we put 5w-30 in our cars at 1,300 asl in the winter. Otherwise, on a real cold morning, the battery doesn't have enough juice to turn the engine over if it has 10w-30.

And, it performs per the second number at 210/100 so we use 10w-40 in the summer so the oil is not too thin on a hot day going up-hill with the A/C blasting.
I therefore think of a 10W-40 as a 10 weight oil that will not thin more than a 40 weight would when hot.

I agree that our bikes seem to like 50 oil in the hot summer, but in the spring and fall, my battery and starter could barely churn through the thick 15 (cold weight) oil. 5w-40 would be perfect in the spring and fall, and 10w-50 (if you can find it/if they make it) would be ideal in the summer.

The 3rd point was based on the comment that sometimes a pure synthetic in an old engine can eliminate the residual sealing of years of dino oil and actually reveal engine seals that need replacing because they now leak. If you WANT to find seals and gaskets that need replacing, then I suppose this side-affect (if it's true) would be a great diagnostic tool.
But be careful what you wish for if you are going to come running back to the Forum with a "boo-hoo, I have oil leaks - HELP!" thread.

 

[Scorpio1963]

Heres a list of oils that are Jaso MA certified to add to all this confusion
10W-40 oils that qualify JASO-MA (the original standard):
Bike Master Performance Motorcycle Oil (Tucker Rocky Distributing)
Bike Master Performance Semi Synthetic Motorcycle Oil (Tucker Rocky Distributing)
Bike Master Performance Full Synthetic Motorcycle Oil (Tucker Rocky Distributing)
BP Vistra Super 4 (BP p.l.c.)
Power 1 Scooter (Castrol)
Castrol Activ X-Tra (Castrol)
Castrol Power 1 Scooter (Castrol)
Castrol Power 1 (Castrol)
Power 1 4T (Castrol)
Power 1 Scooter 4T (Castrol)
Caltex Revtex Fully Synthetic 4T (Chevron)
Caltex Havoline Fully Synthetic 4T (Chevron)
Caltex Havoline SuperMatic 4T (Chevron)
Caltex Revtex SuperMatic 4T (Chevron)
Caltex Havoline SuperMatic 4T (Chevron)
Honda ULTRA G2 (Honda)
Kawasaki 100% Synthetic Premium 4-Cycle (Kawasaki)
Motul 3000 (Motul)
Motul 5100 Ester (Motul)
Motul 3000 4T (Motul)
Motul 5100 4T (Motul)
Motul E-Tech 100 (Motul)
Motul 3100 Silver 4T (Motul)
Motul 5100 (Motul)
Motul 3100 Gold 4T (Motul)
Motul E-Tech 100 (Motul)
Motul HI Tech 100 4T (Motul)
Motul 7100 4T (Motul)
Motul 1100 4T (Motul)
Motul 300V 4T FL (Motul)
Motul 5000 4T (Motul)
Motul Power Quad 4T (Motul)
Motul Quad 4T (Motul)
Motul Scooter Expert 4T (Motul)
Repsol Moto Off Road 4T (Repsol)
Repsol Moto Sintetico 4T (Repsol)
Suzuki ECSTAR Type 04 MA SJ (Suzuki)
Suzuki 4T SP SL (Suzuki)
Yamalube Premium (Yamaha)
Yamalube Sports (Yamaha)
Yamalube FX (Yamaha)
Yamalube Standard Plus (Yamaha)
Yamalube 4 (Yamaha)
Yamalube 4S (Yamaha)
Yamalube 4 AP1 (Yamaha)
Yamalube 3 Semi Synthetic (Yamaha)

 

[Scorpio1963]

Lou Ranger:We need to chip in and all ride down and stay at Scorpio's place. On the way home we can each declare $800 worth of 5 gal. pails of T6! 

Hey there we go 1 big Giant xs400 club get together.I have very nice lush green field everyone can bring tents and set them up.I have a gas BBQ for cooking.Me and my neighbors would get a big kick out of this,game on lets do it:thumbsup:

 

[16VGTIDave]

Scorpio, how close are you to the Blue Water Bridge? My in-laws can see it from their condo in Point Edward, Sarnia. Lou and anyone else could meet at my place (close to where the 403 meets the 401) and we could ride Hwy 2 to London, then 22 to 79 and into Sarnia. Got some trees I could hang my hammock from?

A plan is coming together...

 

[markjs]

I like to put a lot of miles on my bike, but no f***ing way I am going to MI LOL!!!

 

[Scorpio1963]

Im a mere 5 miles away and I fish off the breakwall there along the river front quite often.I could be there in 10 minutes,Problem is I cant get across the bridge I dont have the proper paperwork.

I can see the Bridge/ river by using this link>
http://www.boatnerd.com/livecam/porthuron/

 

[Lou Ranger]

Scorpio, how close are you to the Blue Water Bridge? My in-laws can see it from their condo in Point Edward, Sarnia. Lou and anyone else could meet at my place (close to where the 403 meets the 401) and we could ride Hwy 2 to London, then 22 to 79 and into Sarnia. Got some trees I could hang my hammock from?

A plan is coming together...

Might be fun but how do we strap on $800 of Rotella T6 for the trip back across the bridge?

 

[Scorpio1963]

I have a big wagon thats rated at 1000lbs weight capacity.Fab a trailer hitch to your bike and tow it LOL.Im sure it will hold several cases of oil.Just not sure how bad. it would swerve back and forth.My cousin has a motorcycle trailer also.

 

[frwinks]

On sale this week @cantire: works out to $3.18/litre.

18.9 litres Shell Rotella T Diesel Motor Oil SAVE 20% - now $59.99 (reg $75.99)

Product # 28-7932-6 - Valid Fri, May 10 – Thu, May 16​

I bought a jug of this oil for my cummins, had some left over so I figured I'd give it a shot in the bike after reading this thread. I dumped out the castrol bike oil from last season, put in a new filter and filled the case with the rotella T. Went for a rip to Wasaga on the long weekend, and sure enough....clutch slipping once the motor is hot.. First in 6th gear only, after 10 more min...in every gear No slippage with the castrol bike oil the day before on my shakedown run There is no JAMA mama stamp on the 5gal pail I bought, so I went to CT, checked the smaller 5l jugs and the 1l jugs and those are stamped, all 15w40 triple protection T. Are the big pails a different blend

 

[Lou Ranger]

DANGER. I recall posting about this last year on another oil thread - that SHELL's nomenclature is very confusing. I will look it up and update in a few minutes, but don't run it any further until we confirm. There is a "T" brand and a "3-T" or a "T-3". One of them is NOT good and does have friction modifiers but you can barely tell the difference from the packaging.
I currently have the Rotella with the JASO MA on the label (5 litre jug) in my bike and don't think there is any slippage.