Steel Brake Line for DOHC

[doodsaibot]

I have researched this forum into steel braided brake lines and I am now chompin at the bit to get one for the Maxim. It seems like an essential upgrade since these rubber lines are evidently subpar in comparison. I have searched high and low for a kit online and in town but have turned up empty handed. Is this a part that needs to be customized for our bikes? There may be a few shops here in town that could make me one but if yall know of a kit I could find that would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Wolfe_11B]

Just grab the lines and fittings from Summit or another performance parts store. All the 'kits' are priced about 3 times what they should be. It's just -3an lines with -an banjo fittings.

Just measure the length you need with the forks unloaded, subtract 2 inches for the length of the fittings, and that's the size line you need. Pick the fittings (they have a few angles, or straight). You'll have to double check, but I'm guessing you need 10mm-3/8 banjos (I have SOHC so yours may be different, but it's a pretty standard size). Total cost should be around $27 shipped.

Here is what I bought, for reference only-
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-220305
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-220326
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-220328

 

[doodsaibot]

Thank you, Wolfe. Would I be able to get away with re-using the fittings that I currently have or should I replace them as well? They appear to be in good shape.

 

[Wolfe_11B]

If they are AN flare fittings, you could. I don't know how how your stock lines are made though, usually they are crimped fittings that can't be removed/reused.

 

[doodsaibot]

I just got home and checked, you are correct. They are crimped.

 

[Wolfe_11B]

What size line do you need? I have my old one here with 2 fittings that should work for ya

 

[Wolfe_11B]

This line is 27", with 2 straight fittings it comes out to 30" total. Let me know if it will work for you.

 

[doodsaibot]

Thanks, Wolfe. I will check total length tomorrow when I get some daylight. My rear brake is staying depressed even after I take my foot off of it so I spent some time today and probably tomorrow trying to figure it out. Will check length of brake line tomorrow as well.

 

[XSLeo]

Where your pedal mounts is a shaft. This shaft goes through the frame It needs to be greased now and again.
Leo

 

[doodsaibot]

Thank you, Leo. I will give it some lube. I spent quite a bit of time messing with the brake adjustment.

 

[XSLeo]

Some bikes have a grease fitting in the end of the shaft, some don't. If it don't then it probably the last time it got greased was at the factory.
Leo

 

[16VGTIDave]

There should also be a return spring behind the pivot. If it is missing, the weight of the brake lever, and probably some rust, would prevent the brake from releasing.

 

[doodsaibot]

I will give that a thorough check tomorrow, thanks Dave and Leo. Would chain lube be sufficient for that task?


I went ahead and checked the length of the stock brake line. It sounds silly, but instead of removing the line I ran a piece of string along the same route as the brake line. I cut the string and measured it at 37.5 inches total length. So I don't think the line you have will be long enough, Wolfe, but thank you for offering. i will have to hunt down a 37.5" or 950mm long brake line. I didn't see one on Summit racing but I am sure they are out there online.

 

[Wolfe_11B]

You must have stock bars That's a long line.

 

[doodsaibot]

Actually I went to European handlebars that were a few inches shorter than stock. I can say however, there is a bit of slack at the bottom of the brake line near the wheel. Not sure if having a shorter line would throw off brake performance or anything. Not too educated on brake lines yet so I am just guessing about that performance part.

 

[Wolfe_11B]

Well shorter would actually decrease a bit of 'squishy' feel, since there is less area that is expandable. But it would be such a slight difference you wouldn't feel it. They make the line long to ensure that you don't tug it at full fork extension with the bars turned max lock. A bit of 'safety' slack. I always measure up the max needed and add an inch, since I can't stand extra line hanging about. Also, if you lift the front off the ground and pull the wheel down, you'd be surprised how much static sag there is when the bike is on the ground. Be sure to account for that.

 

[doodsaibot]

That makes good sense. I may still go with the long (stock length) brake line for one reason, and dare I say it, I may sell this bike to a very good friend of mine that wants to get into motorcycling. He is a taller guy around 6'2" and said he would prefer the stock handlebars on the bike if he ended up buying it. I kept the old bars for this very reason. But I am not going to be so quick to sell her quite yet. There is still plenty of learning and riding to do.

On a related note, I am going to get a master cylinder rebuild kit made by K&L. I figured it would be good for me to change both brake line and master cylinder kit at the same time.

 

[doodsaibot]

Solved the rear brake lock up. Just like Dave and Leo said, the spring was gunked up real good.

On the topic of brakes, I researched new brake pads. I read into sintered pads specifically and it sounds to be the best bet compared to our stock pads. Has any one else tried the sintered pads? Or should I just stick with the stock? I want the best braking ability possible.

 

[doodsaibot]

I received the master cylinder rebuild kit and the brake line and swapped it all out. However, the brake lever is engaging all the way back to the handle when I squeeze it. Is that because there is still air in the line? I tried bleeding the air out but I didn't see much drainage from the bleed screw into the rubber drain hose I hooked it up to. The reservoir is still mostly full with fluid. Unless I made a mistake on the MC kit, is there something else I am missing? Does bleeding the brakes usually take a while?

 

[BBS360]

I received the master cylinder rebuild kit and the brake line and swapped it all out. However, the brake lever is engaging all the way back to the handle when I squeeze it. Is that because there is still air in the line? I tried bleeding the air out but I didn't see much drainage from the bleed screw into the rubber drain hose I hooked it up to. The reservoir is still mostly full with fluid. Unless I made a mistake on the MC kit, is there something else I am missing? Does bleeding the brakes usually take a while?

Should be lots of fluid coming out of the bleed screw. It can take a while and few refills of the brake fluid reservoir. Once it stops pumping out bubbles, and only pumps out brake fluid, then you're done.

The proper procedure is documented in the manual.