What Gauge Steel for Metal Seat Pan

[jmd_forest]

I'm getting started on building a custom seat pan for my cafe project. I have found a design I intend to mimic and it is made from sheetmetal. I've read through a few posts and have seen pans made from everything from 12 gauge to 22 gauge in everything from stainless steel to aluminum. Anyone have suggestions for a good gauge for a sheet steel pan. The design will be vaguely similar to Drewpy's street tracker seat.

Thanks for any info you may be able to provide.

 

[Shaun Chandler]

22 gauge is good if your putting compound curves in with a hammer or wheel. But its very light if your not bending it. For a flat pan I would say atleast 1/8 (10 or 12 gauge)material you could use aluminum or steel. If you are going to integrate a tail cowl into the pan and your welding ability dosen't allow you to weld aluminum I would stick with steel.

You could make the pan from 14 gauge mild steel if you were putting bends into it such as a 90 degree bend on the edge. If you know someone with a bead roller you can also have them roll beads into the sheet metal to make it more stiff. It all really comes down to how you will form the material. So if you can not do much forming go abit thicker.

Stainless is a great material but not great for use on most veichle applications and once again if you don't have the experience welding it I would stay away from it.

Shaun

 

[jmd_forest]

Shaun, Thanks for the info. I have a MIG welder and can weld steel reasonably well. I have plenty of experience in auto body but not much in fabrication. I may simply make a model and/or pattern in light gauge and take it to a local sheet metal shop to be fabbed up in a heavier gauge with better tools such as the bead roller and edger.

 

[HoughMade]

I beat a seat pan to repair my vintage long spring bicycle seat for my motorized bicycle out of 16ga mild steel. I heated it with MAPP gas.

 

[tritowns]

I've made lots of armour back in the day outta 16 ga mild steel... i've never had to heat it to form it and i have done lots of compound curves... just take your time and you'd be surprised what a hammer and a heavy bag full of sand can do

 

[Shaun Chandler]

the only materials you need to heat while forming is copper and aluminum and its done to anneal.

Heating the steel wouldn't do much really just normalize it. It wouldn't damage it I just think its a step you don't need to take.

Thats a nice looking bike HoughMade

Shaun

 

[jmd_forest]

Well, I finished the seat pattern using poster paper and there are no compound curves. I think I'll be using 12 gauge sheet steel. I'm looking for a local shop today to both buy the sheet steel as well as talk to them about possible services such as rolling the edges to give it a professional look and feel. I'll post pictures as soon as I have something.

 

[jmd_forest]

Found a local sheet metal shop today and talked to them. They suggest using 14 or 16 gauge and will make a decision once I bring them the pattern tomorrow. They were VERY cooperative and made a few sufggestions about rolling the edge for more stability and noted the price would likely be less than $50.

 

[Shaun Chandler]

50 bucks sounds very fair. They probably wouldn't have heavy enough tooling and equipment to roll a bead in 1/8 material. That kind of work is done on lighter guages like 16 and mabey 14.

Shaun

 

[jmd_forest]

Took the pattern to them this morning and they are suggesting 16 gauge. The $50 is a "special" price since they turned out to be fellow motorcycle enthusiasts. They are expecting to fit the job in some time before New Years. From what I could see of the shop they have over a million dollars of equipment for building everything from shelving to power supply casings for nuclear subs. I"m really looking forward to getting the seat back but theres plenty of other work to do in the mean time. I've started one or 2 threads already on this project for carbs and ignition and maybe I should start a "build thread"?