New Guy - Front Wheel/Axle Question

[Alex Reams]

To start, just wanted to say that so far, I have found so much amazing insite on this forum that has helped me get through some things on my bike to this point. Thanks to this place for all the help so far.

*The bike - 1980 yamaha XS400SG (I believe anyway, 3F9 code).

*History - I received this bike in stock form, non running condition, electric start pin/springs damaged, and kickstart believed to not be working. After a little bit of research and some adjustments, I was able to rotate the kick start arm to allow for more travel and I got the bike to kick over and run for a few seconds before I decided it was worth fixing the rest of the issues.

*Things done so far - Electrical issues sorted, carbs rebuilt (mostly finished), front forks rebuilt, front caliper rebuilt, new shoes and pads, general tuneup items, and some improvements made for aesthetics.

The issue I am coming to you all with is in regards to my front caliper rebuild. I am beginning the reassembly process and I can't seem to get the front wheel to align between the forks correctly. When rebuilding the forks, I thought it was maybe off but the brake was locking up as well so I decided it was the caliper (which turned out to be true based off the condition of the piston). But now on reassembly the bracket for the caliber is not able to slide in because it is hitting the rotor.

First question is did I put the wheel together correctly?
Here is the process I used to reassemble the front wheel (maybe I am not even doing this part right) before I took the front caliper off the bike.

*Insert axle through forks and wheel
*Lightly clamp the axle at the end of the fork with the speedometer unit aligned in the fork tube locater
*Torque the nut to 76ft.lbs. (When doing this, it seems to put some pressure inward on the fork tubes)
*Release axle clamp at the end of the fork tube to allow the forks to settle
*Torque the axle clamp front bolt first then rear bolt to 14ft.lbs.

If that sounds correct, is there supposed to be a washer or spacer on the caliper side of the wheel inside of the fork tube? I have one on the outside but not the inside. Seems that would solve my spacing problem but I don't think a spacer goes on the inside between the fork and wheel bearing dust cover based on the diagram.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Here’s a few pictures I have of the old girl.
Bike upon arrival:

Current-ish status:

Sorry for the long post, first time poster here!

 

[Dave John]

As you can see there is a spacer between the tube and the bearing. This is from my 4R4

 

[Alex Reams]

Thanks for the picture and reply! I do have that on mine. I think that’s what the manual calls the wheel bearing dust cover? But no spacer or washer in between that and the fork tube right?

I’ll snap a couple pictures on Monday when I work on it again to share the issue a little better.

As far as the sequence for attaching the front wheel and torquing everything down, am I doing that correctly or is there a better way I should be doing it? How far should the speedo drive engage into the alignment tab on the fork tube? Seems like mine wants to pull away when I release the pressure on the end caps and it settles into place. I wonder if my process for torquing the front axle is wrong. Help on that would be much appreciated!

 

[CaptChrome]

*The bike - 1980 yamaha XS400SG (I believe anyway, 3F9 code).

You have the correct model number - 3F9 code is a 1980 SG.

I love the flames on the original tank! I haven't seen that before on an XS400. Whoever put those on must have been moving up from a 90cc bike. The refurb job looks great!

 

[Alex Reams]

That is with axle nut loose and not torqued at all, do I just tighten the fork cap then torque axle nut and call it a done job? What’s the proper sequence for torquing the front axle?

 

[tstidham]

When I did mine for the front tire, I noticed I could just put a Philips screw driver shaft through the hole in the axle shaft head so I made sure to have on in there when it put it back. I also had a gap on the right side but after torqueing, it closed up tight and the wheel spun free. You should also press your brake piston into the caliper to give max space, then pump the front brakes to readjust them.

 

[Alex Reams]

When I did mine for the front tire, I noticed I could just put a Philips screw driver shaft through the hole in the axle shaft head so I made sure to have on in there when it put it back. I also had a gap on the right side but after torqueing, it closed up tight and the wheel spun free. You should also press your brake piston into the caliper to give max space, then pump the front brakes to readjust them.

Thanks a bunch for the insight. I may have been just over thinking it. I went ahead and torqued everything and pulled it tight to the clamp side and it seems to be better. Now if I could only get the new brake master cylinder, line and rebuilt caliper to bleed properly…

 

[tstidham]

Having just replaced my front brake line as well, I can confirm getting the front master to bleed takes some doing. I found tapping the master cylinder body while slowly turning the handlebars from one side to the other will get air bubbles to percolate up into the reservoir helps. I had it on the center stand to make turning the front a little easier and less jerky so as not to spill fluid. It's slow going to get the air out of the cylinder to get fluid flowing. I left the bleeder open with a hose attached while doing this and once I saw some fluid at the caliper I started doing the normal pump and hold, close bleeder, release. Then open bleeder, pump and hold. More tapping and turning, more pumping/hold/release. I just kept repeating that until no more air bubbles percolated into the reservoir or appeared in the bleeder hose.

 

[gpounce32768]

Oh yeah to get my front master to bleed, I had to put on the mad scientist hat and put a vacuum pump on the caliper bleed nipple. Once I had fluid in the caliper then the close bleeder/pump and hold/open bleeder process worked ok.