A fuse is waiting for over usage of Amperage. so if something is grounding out, and instead of blowing up your bike, it will blow out the fuse instead. If you look at our bike, the stator puts out the energy, or creates the energy, from the stator to the recifier/Voltage regulator, then that current after being conditioned by the recitfier (rectifier has about 5 diodes) sending electricity to the wire harness, which in turns charges the battery to 14.2 - .7 volts. so the flow of the electricity compared to the stator verses Battery, will supply power when at idle, and other stator low points, So the wire harness will have the strength of current that is equall to the strongest item at the time. so at Idle with brakes applied power is coming off the battery, which will recharge when you start to cruise. It makes sense to mearfstrom,Im kinda confused on how an inline fuse would alow the current flow both ways.Doesnt a fuse act like safety mechanism just as would that single strand of wire does?
In the diagram I added here, the fuses don't see power from the stator, till after it hits the regulator/rectifier. So power is AC = alternating current till it passes the diode/rectifier. So potentially if there is a short on that side of the recitfier, something is going to be hot.If there is a short in that circuit to the diode it would blow the fuse instead.I was thinking of using a 5amp fuse there.
From http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?TID=122533So, why does all this matter you may be asking? The fuse/breaker is a safety device intended to offer protection. It provides protection in two ways - from trying to pull too much current through a wire and direct shorts to ground. If you try to pull more current through a wire then it can safely carry the wire WILL heat up and it will eventually start melting and possibly catch on fire. That is why the chart in the link is so important. NEVER use a fuse larger then what is listed in the chart (or larger then the wire manufacture recommends if that number is available). Direct shorts, though, also have to be considered, and this is why using the largest "safe" fuse isn't always the best idea. Fuses are rated to blow based on percentage of load. A 350A fuse may hold 650A for 10 seconds or more before blowing! (http://www.cooperbussmann.com/pdf/0810938a-26c4-44e2-a299-8962dd6ea9a7.pdf) and will allow ~1200A to pass for 1 second before opening up! This has the potential to damage your battery, your alternator, or any electronic device in your vehicle if you were to experience a direct short.
Is this by the relays? or next to the turn signal things? or headlight bucket? two years ago, after cleaning every ground spot on the engine, and the battery, next to the batter (3 places soo far) I placed fresh scores with sandpaper between the old connectors,and the spot on the frame where it grounded. Just for the clean groundings.As for the white wire that has a single strand of copper wire in it I haven't fixed it yet.It has a loop that connects with plug in connectors I`ll have to get a pic of that so you guys know what Im talking about.