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Igintion problem
- Thread starter Scorpio1963
- Start date
Ok thankx like I said its not identified on the diagram so I had no idea.On another not I found a very small single strand of wiring thats burnt in two on the main harness today.It starts white has a brass connector then a single strand of bare wire.I dont believe it has anything to do with my estart I think its why my head light quit working.going to try and fix it this evening
white wire with the bare wire almost looks like its there for saftety reasons.It has to mail and female plug ins with a single strand of bare copper wire.Any ideas what its for?
DARKMIDKNIGHTWARRIOR
XS400 Addict
On the diagram it looks like that wire goes to the ac generator and the rectifier. There is a symbol in line with it that I do not know.
DARKMIDKNIGHTWARRIOR
Did you notice on the diagram that theres is a single connection point on that whilte wire?Im that spot is a single strand of wire that seems to be there as a safety mechanism so that if there is a short the wire will burn like a fusebale link instead of the relay or whatever it connects to.I dont have any kind of this wire at home so Im going to put an inline fuse thats 5 amps so if theres a problem in that spot again it will blow the fuse.I have yet to test if it made any difference on anything since I spliced back together yesterday.
Did you notice on the diagram that theres is a single connection point on that whilte wire?Im that spot is a single strand of wire that seems to be there as a safety mechanism so that if there is a short the wire will burn like a fusebale link instead of the relay or whatever it connects to.I dont have any kind of this wire at home so Im going to put an inline fuse thats 5 amps so if theres a problem in that spot again it will blow the fuse.I have yet to test if it made any difference on anything since I spliced back together yesterday.
DARKMIDKNIGHTWARRIOR
XS400 Addict
Yes the oval with the back arrow pointing a line. I think it is to protect the relay if there is a voltage spike.
Thanks MidnightWarrior I`ll have to come up with inline fuse and must have had a voltage spike one time or another maybe when I was jumping the bikeoe from the solinoid?
Question for somebody experienced with the mwiring on these bikes how can I bypass the safety relays,doesnt seem like I`ll be getting any soon.checked ebay last night not much on there.My only option is to find a member whos parting their bike out.
Sorry Scorpy, like chris said, I know that the 81 has 2 relays, one is called a safety, and the other is a headlight relay. your newer bike has the extra relay for the kickstand. I am going off of memory. So like the headlight relay, you know that the White wire comes from the stator via a diode protected line. Then the other main color is going to the headlights (blue or yellow memory not good) So the other two wires are the low power actuating half of the relay. Once you have a fire grip of what each wire is for, jump the the actuating side. Just don't do that willy nilly, and blow something expensive out. just cause you didn't take the time to ensure which way the power flows down hill (stream) however you view the current thoery! There are some pics on here from 2012 of poeple who have jumped some relays. Take your time, Breath!
Tobie
Tobie
Well heres is what so baffling,if there are two relays which I never noticed before I cant figure out how the other one dissapeard over winter
My bike was lock up in a storage unit all winter.The only way one of them could have came up missing would be someone would have had to pick the lock and walk in know what they are looking for and unplug it from bike.
My bike was lock up in a storage unit all winter.The only way one of them could have came up missing would be someone would have had to pick the lock and walk in know what they are looking for and unplug it from bike.
DARKMIDKNIGHTWARRIOR
XS400 Addict
Ok..I reread this from the start. I want to make sure of a few things and see where you are at with this.
1. Your bike was locked in a storage shed away from your house all winter!-Did any one else have a key? Is the bike still at the storage shed or have you moved it? If so. How did you move it? Trailer?
2. You did not change or modify anything on the bike over the winter.
3. The bike worked fine when it was put in the shed.- How did it get there?
4. You have a new battery.
5. You have a non-stock ignition switch.
6. Did you recover the spliced wire in the head light bucket? (from your post #46 on page 1 of this thread)(and did you unhook the wires from post#48 from page 1, since it looks like that may have been what killed the headlight?)
7. Did you fix/ remove the clutch switch?
8. Just checking but is the bike in neutral?
Also I read on here in another thread that the symbol in the white wire from the relay is a diode. That diodes function as a check valve in they don't let A/C voltage go back after it is past. So I don't know if an inline fuse will work there. I can't think of anything else right now.
1. Your bike was locked in a storage shed away from your house all winter!-Did any one else have a key? Is the bike still at the storage shed or have you moved it? If so. How did you move it? Trailer?
2. You did not change or modify anything on the bike over the winter.
3. The bike worked fine when it was put in the shed.- How did it get there?
4. You have a new battery.
5. You have a non-stock ignition switch.
6. Did you recover the spliced wire in the head light bucket? (from your post #46 on page 1 of this thread)(and did you unhook the wires from post#48 from page 1, since it looks like that may have been what killed the headlight?)
7. Did you fix/ remove the clutch switch?
8. Just checking but is the bike in neutral?
Also I read on here in another thread that the symbol in the white wire from the relay is a diode. That diodes function as a check valve in they don't let A/C voltage go back after it is past. So I don't know if an inline fuse will work there. I can't think of anything else right now.
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Nope. A fuse will let current flow either way. The diode is only letting current through one way. Which makes the current DC. I thought we had talked about the diode some time ago?
lets see my bike is in a storage unit about a half a block away from my apartment.It resides in there with my 1996 jimmy project.I walk back and forth to it about everyday.
I wasn't able to go there much over the winter cause of the deep snow we had and nobody ever plows the place.
Im the only one with a key to the lock.
Yes to 2 and 3 nothing was modified on the bike over winter.
I rode the bike in their this where I keep it when Im not riding.
My switch is stock that hasn't been modified.
The clutch switch has been removed..via unplugging the wire from inside the head light bucket.
All the wires in the head light bucket are the same as they always have been,nothing has been modified or rewired in there.
As for the white wire that has a single strand of copper wire in it I haven't fixed it yet.It has a loop that connects with plug in connectors I`ll have to get a pic of that so you guys know what Im talking about.
Yes the bike is in neutral.
arfstrom,Im kinda confused on how an inline fuse would alow the current flow both ways.Doesnt a fuse act like safety mechanism just as would that single strand of wire does?If there is a short in that circuit to the diode it would blow the fuse instead.I was thinking of using a 5amp fuse there.
I wasn't able to go there much over the winter cause of the deep snow we had and nobody ever plows the place.
Im the only one with a key to the lock.
Yes to 2 and 3 nothing was modified on the bike over winter.
I rode the bike in their this where I keep it when Im not riding.
My switch is stock that hasn't been modified.
The clutch switch has been removed..via unplugging the wire from inside the head light bucket.
All the wires in the head light bucket are the same as they always have been,nothing has been modified or rewired in there.
As for the white wire that has a single strand of copper wire in it I haven't fixed it yet.It has a loop that connects with plug in connectors I`ll have to get a pic of that so you guys know what Im talking about.
Yes the bike is in neutral.
arfstrom,Im kinda confused on how an inline fuse would alow the current flow both ways.
Doesnt a fuse act like safety mechanism just as would that single strand of wire does?If there is a short in that circuit to the diode it would blow the fuse instead.I was thinking of using a 5amp fuse there.somewhere someone said something about a fuse. I was just stating that fuse, do not discrimate which way electricity flows. Except if there is a rectifier, or diode in line. which there is one, listed in the image. remember that wire diagram is for the XS400 SH, circa 81.
Power goes from the recifier to the regulator to the Fuse block to the rest of the bike.
it would be nice to see the pic that you are seeing.Tobie
from the http://www.the12volt.com/ forum.
A fuse is waiting for over usage of Amperage. so if something is grounding out, and instead of blowing up your bike, it will blow out the fuse instead. If you look at our bike, the stator puts out the energy, or creates the energy, from the stator to the recifier/Voltage regulator, then that current after being conditioned by the recitfier (rectifier has about 5 diodes) sending electricity to the wire harness, which in turns charges the battery to 14.2 - .7 volts. so the flow of the electricity compared to the stator verses Battery, will supply power when at idle, and other stator low points, So the wire harness will have the strength of current that is equall to the strongest item at the time. so at Idle with brakes applied power is coming off the battery, which will recharge when you start to cruise. It makes sense to me
In the diagram I added here, the fuses don't see power from the stator, till after it hits the regulator/rectifier. So power is AC = alternating current till it passes the diode/rectifier. So potentially if there is a short on that side of the recitfier, something is going to be hot.
Power goes from the recifier to the regulator to the Fuse block to the rest of the bike.
it would be nice to see the pic that you are seeing.Tobie
from the http://www.the12volt.com/ forum.
From http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?TID=122533
Attachments
Ok since the fuse doesn't seem the way to go here without being able to find this kind wire the link uses how would you suggest I fix this?Oh and thanks very much for the replys
That diode is hiding between the fuel tank, and the seat, in the wire harness. it is an order-able part. complete with bullet connectors. If my tranny was lying on my garage bench, I would drive though the U.P. to see if you need some help
Is this by the relays? or next to the turn signal things? or headlight bucket? two years ago, after cleaning every ground spot on the engine, and the battery, next to the batter (3 places soo far) I placed fresh scores with sandpaper between the old connectors,and the spot on the frame where it grounded. Just for the clean groundings.
DARKMIDKNIGHTWARRIOR
XS400 Addict
The diode is #28 in this link.
http://www.partsoutlaw.com/oemparts/a/yam/50042080f8700209bc786ec9/electrical-1
http://www.partsoutlaw.com/oemparts/a/yam/50042080f8700209bc786ec9/electrical-1
Hemm haven't seen that diode yet and I have my tank and seat off.I have been looking in that area.I`ll take a look in there again today and also take some pics of this wire.If I could find a strand of wire similar to the one I need to fix this loop inbetween the two connectors it would be an easy fix.I don't want to wire something that's 2 heavy of guage and ended burning something out.
Chances are, there is nothing wrong with yours. I just looked at my bike, looking for that diode for a Pic, and I could not see it. Its in a clear see through rubber heat shrink style tubing. under the tape.
But that reminds me to plug the "silicone Self fusing tape" Menards sells it for about 6 bucks for 10 feet sections. Its easy on, and easy off, and great for the doing the instant repair when you cut up your heat shrink to get to things. A quick google, you will find Silicon Self sealing or fusing, all of them are great for up to 500 degrees, and electricity, and the list goes on.
But that reminds me to plug the "silicone Self fusing tape" Menards sells it for about 6 bucks for 10 feet sections. Its easy on, and easy off, and great for the doing the instant repair when you cut up your heat shrink to get to things. A quick google, you will find Silicon Self sealing or fusing, all of them are great for up to 500 degrees, and electricity, and the list goes on.
Well good news is that I found the perfect size wire to splice into the white wire where the copper strand is.I was digging around in my scrap pile and walla I remembered I had stripped a bunch of wire from some transistors on some power supplys.So I`ll be able to splice that in perfect today.
