DARKMIDKNIGHTWARRIOR
XS400 Addict
If you can post a pic of the headlight bucket insides from straight on. Just close enough to see all the wires.
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Igintion problem
- Thread starter Scorpio1963
- Start date
Im not going to have much time to look or work on the bike today but I`ll see if I can find the time to get that pic.
Does anyone know if inside the start button if there should be a metal contact inside of it that makes contact with the spring it compresses to start?I don't rember when my old one broke if there was or not or if just the small portion of the spring just sits firmly in the back side of the button?I know this is rather long question If you cant understand it I`ll try and reword it.
On the left handle bar control inside is the wiring that goes to the switch,theres a blue wire that's soldered on to the larger end of the spring.Its then compressed and fits into a retaining area and then has a metal strip with a screw to hold it in place.the button them protrudes out of the hole in the bottom of the control.Its supposed compress the spring to make contact and turn the engine over.Help please Aaron
On the left handle bar control inside is the wiring that goes to the switch,theres a blue wire that's soldered on to the larger end of the spring.Its then compressed and fits into a retaining area and then has a metal strip with a screw to hold it in place.the button them protrudes out of the hole in the bottom of the control.Its supposed compress the spring to make contact and turn the engine over.Help please Aaron
Hello can anyone help?I don't have my old starter button to check.
DARKMIDKNIGHTWARRIOR
XS400 Addict
I wish I could help you on that. I have not been inside mine yet.
YUeah see theres a metal contact on the inside portion of the spring,when you push the button theres two contacts that come together as the spring is compressed.So now that I think about it theres probably nothing but just the spring that sits in a hole which keeps the spring from falling out.when I first posted the question I forgot how the button works.oh the joy of having early altzimers lmao.
With that said I haven't figured anything out or whats causing my problem.Its been cold and not ideal for working without heat.Going to check on the cost of propane soon cause the forecast is saying its supposed to be cold all week. why couldn't it have just 70* like the other day?I had shorts and tshirt on.
With that said I haven't figured anything out or whats causing my problem.Its been cold and not ideal for working without heat.Going to check on the cost of propane soon cause the forecast is saying its supposed to be cold all week. why couldn't it have just 70* like the other day?I had shorts and tshirt on.
Today I worked on my problem,first I tried jumping the bike from solenoid and got it to fire up a couple of times for a few seconds.It was acting like it wanted to start but wouldn't.
Next I dove into the switch on the handle bars and was studying just how the push button works.
Imagine this if you can,inside the switch retainer is a blue wire with a metal contact on the end similar to a light bulb but much smaller making contact with a spring.The spring is tapered and makes contact with the one attached to the wire.The smaller end of the spring sits inside the back end of the button to hold it in place.
While looking at the contact attached to the blue wire I notice burn marks.
So this is related to me question aboue inside the estart button is there supposed to be a metal contact inside.From studying the switch when press the button compressing the spring the two contacts touch allowing the bike to turn over.This is my anological thought anyways.Now if somebody who might be in the middle of their build or has a extra left hand controls around somewhere could confirm this I think mI will have solved my problem maybe.
Then heres the bad news while jump starting the bike and it was trying to fire the headlight was on but then it quit.The bike also quit trying to fire over,is this somehow connected or just a strange coincidence?If not why would headlight go out,I tested it by hooking up 12 + volts to it and its not dead.
One other question other than just guessing how would you know if the tci box is dead or alive?
Next I dove into the switch on the handle bars and was studying just how the push button works.
Imagine this if you can,inside the switch retainer is a blue wire with a metal contact on the end similar to a light bulb but much smaller making contact with a spring.The spring is tapered and makes contact with the one attached to the wire.The smaller end of the spring sits inside the back end of the button to hold it in place.
While looking at the contact attached to the blue wire I notice burn marks.
So this is related to me question aboue inside the estart button is there supposed to be a metal contact inside.From studying the switch when press the button compressing the spring the two contacts touch allowing the bike to turn over.This is my anological thought anyways.Now if somebody who might be in the middle of their build or has a extra left hand controls around somewhere could confirm this I think mI will have solved my problem maybe.
Then heres the bad news while jump starting the bike and it was trying to fire the headlight was on but then it quit.The bike also quit trying to fire over,is this somehow connected or just a strange coincidence?If not why would headlight go out,I tested it by hooking up 12 + volts to it and its not dead.
One other question other than just guessing how would you know if the tci box is dead or alive?
Specdog
XS400 Addict
Yes. Click on the link below and scroll down until you see a horn button. The starter button is the same.
http://www.mikesxs.net/products-28.html#products
It is normal for the headlight to go out when you crank over the engine. The headlight relights when the engine starts.
I would look into the missing relay/open plug you have. If the light went on then out it could be a fuse of bad connection. Your just going to have to trace all the wires and see if one has broken or is grounding out somewhere.
Thanks after studying that was exactly what I thought when I seen the other end that has the wire contact scored.I wish I would have noticed that before I trashed my old starter button.I also swept the garge floor the same day so thers no chance of recovering that piece of metal that fell out.Im sure I can come up with some kinda Mc Giver engenuity.
It could be htat the missing kickstand safety relay is part of the problem,thing is that baffles me is two cut wires on the empty plug harness/connector.It didn't look like anything that was done recently.I tried switching them around via advice from another member it didn't make much difference with exception that I had no power to the key switch.Now I don't have a clue how these relay boxes work and if they work in conjection with each other or not.All I can tell you the first one near the gear box when its hooked everything is normal except the estart doesn't work.Having another 81 side by side next to mine would help me compare parts.Im more than likely going to take a trip to boneyard that's near me and see what if any differences I can find.
An update sorta on my switch problem,since I lost the metal contact out of the bottom of the switch I took a screw and screwed into the bottom with head on.It was too long and not giving the spring enough travel to compress the spring so that it fit inside its retainer.So I took that out put in a longer screw which I then ground the head off to where the metal contact is only sticking out about an 1/8th of an inch give or take.Stuck it and the spring back in its retainer and have the travel room the spring needs to compress all the way.WEnt to put it back on the handle bar switch and even with 4 layers on it was just too cold to get it finished.The wind was blowiong of Lake huron pretty strong yesterdat so it was only in the 30`s and blowing into my garage even with the door closed it didn't help much.Still have the same blasted cold wind today but the sun is out so that should help warm things up.I`ll know within a couple minutes if this is going to work or not.
Another question it shows on the wiring diagram theres only 1 kickstand safety relay and another relay that just says relay, if someone could take a look and confirm this is the relay Im missing.
Ok guys this problem has only gone from bad to worse,for some reason now the head light wont come on when I turn the key.Also my new push button for the estart when I push it sometimes shocks me and still doesn't turn the bike over.
Can the switch on the top side where the say stop run/stop be bad and causing part on my problems?
Not only that I don't have any right turn signals and for a bonus I broke the wire off the the little plastic clutch switch,can someone tell me what its function is and do I need it to start my bike?1 more question how do I get it out?
Can the switch on the top side where the say stop run/stop be bad and causing part on my problems?
Not only that I don't have any right turn signals and for a bonus I broke the wire off the the little plastic clutch switch,can someone tell me what its function is and do I need it to start my bike?1 more question how do I get it out?
Hey guys I was reading through some electrical threads and wonder if this is my problem?I doubt it but could it be?
http://www.xs400.com/forum/showthread.php?t=12455
http://www.xs400.com/forum/showthread.php?t=12455
DARKMIDKNIGHTWARRIOR
XS400 Addict
Yes it could be part of your issue...if you have other than chrome coated bars. I am not 100% sure but I think you do need the clutch safety switch wires connected to start. I will look at your other questions in a bit.
DARKMIDKNIGHTWARRIOR I sppreciate your help,so the lcutch switch,does it actualy have to be engaged to start or can I just twist the wires together.Also does anyone know of a picture of of the nside of the stop run switch ontop of the handlebars?I took mine apart yesterday and fear I put it put it together run wrong
.I don't fieel that clicking anymore when your turn it
.There was a little ball bearing inside the switch Im wondering if it goes inbetween the 2 contacts inside of the switch?
.I don't fieel that clicking anymore when your turn it.There was a little ball bearing inside the switch Im wondering if it goes inbetween the 2 contacts inside of the switch?
Ok I tried the filing off the paint on the bars trick,no go!I managed to fix the stop/run/stop switch and my intuition was correct about a little ball bear I found inside of it and figure out this is what makes the clicking you feel.Next is to figure out how to remove this stubborn clutch switch.I have that piece off the handle bars an on my desk.Hopefully it doesn't rain for 3 days straight and I get to the bone yard to get another relay.
After that fix why the head light isn't working anymore,more wiring diagnostic although Im stumped on that.I have looked at every wire inside the bucket and down along the frame,fuses what else?
Im disappointed that some of you more experienced members haven't stepped up to the plate and try and help.I feel like Im just writing to me self,helloe me its me again.Dear diary this is what I did today.Is there bulliten going around the forum to ignore my post because that's how it feels
After that fix why the head light isn't working anymore,more wiring diagnostic although Im stumped on that.I have looked at every wire inside the bucket and down along the frame,fuses what else?
Im disappointed that some of you more experienced members haven't stepped up to the plate and try and help.I feel like Im just writing to me self,helloe me its me again.Dear diary this is what I did today.Is there bulliten going around the forum to ignore my post because that's how it feels
It is hard to fix a bike that is not in front of you
With wiring it is even harder. All we can do is tell you to read the wiring diagram and test/trace the lines. Electrical issues are the most difficult to understand and work out for most. As for the clutch switch follow the wires to where they plug into the bucket and take it out. You don't need it. For the other relay I don't know. I don't have an 81 and I know they have a side stand switch that has to do with it starting.
With wiring it is even harder. All we can do is tell you to read the wiring diagram and test/trace the lines. Electrical issues are the most difficult to understand and work out for most. As for the clutch switch follow the wires to where they plug into the bucket and take it out. You don't need it. For the other relay I don't know. I don't have an 81 and I know they have a side stand switch that has to do with it starting. 
