Another Dreaded LED Turn signal Thread

Leds.

So, inline resistors, 25 apiece, no dice.
Tridon whatever. Not working. Most of my fuses, BLOWN.
Glad i switched to an ato blade fusebox. On the plus side, Im learning a lot about patience.
edit*
So, five hours of trying to get Led signals to flash. Two trips to O' Reileys, 2 diff flashers (both the wrong kind) Got a TWO prong tridon that made EVERYTHING flash when I had resistors wired in. Took apart the left control until i couldn't get any more bits out of it and then sprayed 30 years of crap out of there. Put it back together and the switching action feels crisper but now I cant get ANY flash at all. Unplugged self canceler, nothing. resistors in, nothing, resistors out (used to be all 4 would come on and stay on.)
Im giving up until next weekend, maybe, I HATE to leave this crap half finished. Also dropped my gas tank, denting it and chipping theheck out of the paint. At least it matches the side covers now. I will try the ep34, maybe, if I can determine that I have not broken the switch.
 
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Ok, one more time. The stock bulbs draw about 2 amps each, two bulbs is 4 amps. LED's draw about .45 apms each, two are .9 apms. A very signifigant drop in the draw on the system.
So you put in the LED's and they don't flash. To use the stock flasher you need to add anough resistance to bring the current draw back up to 2 apms each, 4 total.
To me this sounds like a waste, just stay with stock lights.
To get LED's to flash go to www.superbrightleds.com order the LFS-1-Flat flasher $8.95. Remove the plastic part from the leads. Plug the red lead into the stock flasher socket where the brown wire is, plug the black lead into the socket where the brown/white wire is. Sometimes the red lead is grey.
This will give you bright turns that flash.
jordan, on you switch, hook a multi meter to the wires coming out of the left side switch housing. The brown/white is power in to the switch. Power out is on the dark green and chocolate wires. With the switch in left position your meter should show continuity on the chcocolate wire and the right, the dark green wire.
Sometimes where the wires are soldered into the switch they are poorly soldered from the factory. resolder them back into the switch.
Leo
 
Super bright has some very good LED bulbs too. 45 LED tower bulbs for both tail/brake and turns. They also sell a motorcycle tail/brake light that has red LED's pointing to the rear and white LED's pointing down at the license plate.
Leo
 
Yeah, I got a new brakelight/license plate assy thats LED, with integrated turn signals. Looks like i will be ordering that flasher. Found another vendor but superbright offers a waterproof one, that looks good cause I ride in all weather.
 
i had no problem with the turn signal flasher.. as i knew threw you guys that the old one wouldn't work.. as i found out real soon.. with my new LED turn/brake light ...... i stole a flasher from work that came from a new mack truck with to prongs able to illuminate many lights flashed fine...... MY PROBLEM!!.... one the new light i bought which is pretty sweet except it has one red wire for the brake/tail light coming off of it.. and on my 81 i've got the 2 blues for running(only need one) and the one yellow for brake (which works bc i've tested it ... so how should i hook this up??? my thought was fk it.. and hook the yellow brake to the red leaving it off while running until i braked... then having a completely seperate tail light to hook up to the blues... have any better ideas???
 
Your going to have to figure out which wires on the light do what.
If the light has the tail and brake light and the turnsignals all in one unit. There is a wire to the left turn, a wire for the right turn, one for the tail light, one for the brake light.
Most light assemblies like that ground through the body of the light.
So just how many wires does it have?
Leo
 
ok well heres my point... i've got a black for negative..yellow for left turn..orange for right...green for license place(white light).. and only a red for tail and brake.. so a total of 5 wires coming out of LED board.. and i've got the two blues for the 2 single old lights coming of the bike and the one yellow and it use to have a loop yellow piece for the old light... so how can i some how stick to this one light... i think i should post a picture at this point .. what do you think? drewpy? bcware? xsleo? yall smart help me out haha
 
moto_0366.jpg

moto_0365.jpg

the red wire is the only wire comin out of the LED light for brake light and tail light .. how should i wire it?:doh:
 
moto_0367.jpg

also here is the flasher i found that worked just fine with the LED turn signals.. but you do need to ground the yellow wire.. came from a new mack truck.. reads..

GROTE

electronic flasher

44690

16 lamp/35 A, 12 volt
SAE j945, j590
FMVSS 108

made in canada
 
In your first pic is the wires from the bike, the second are the wires from the lights, correct?
Does the wire that lights the white license plate lights also light the tail light?
On the wires coming from the bike, the yellow is the brake lights, blue is tail light, and you only need one. The stock taillight had two bulbs.
On your new light assembly are you sure the black is ground?
Can you check on the circuit board it self and see if it grounds through the black wire or through the body of the assembly?
As I said most lights ground through the body. The black may be the tail light, not ground.
Who made your light assembly? Did it come with instructions?
On the Mack truck flasher, I can't say, I've never used on. How does the flasher hook up in the Mack truck?
Leo
 
So what I did on mine. I bought the cheapest LED flasher off eBay (3 buck or smth), The connector was plug and play. Then I just cut off the self cancelling connector, now I had 5 leftover wires, three first ones I made blind and the yellow/green I soldered with black, and voila. This cheap bastard even makes quite loud noise.
 
Recently my blinkers started acting wonky (fast and slow flashing) seemingly based on RPM. I pulled the flasher off and removed the female terminals from the harness and one of my female terminals had broken. The vibrations at higher rpms were probably what was causing the broken connection to move.

I bought an EP34 tridon flasher ($12) from the auto parts store to do the conversion anyway. I am using Suzuki gs500 blinkers at the moment, but the flasher works beautifully.

On my 1978 2E the connections are as follows:

Brown wire to B
Black wire to E
Brown/White wire to L

As mentioned previously, the tridon EP34 has a different orientation on the prongs of the flasher. This means you must remove the female blades from the plug and switch at least two of them around. You can then reuse the original plug/harness or simply make extentions as seen a few posts up.
 
Have to admit, I'm stumped doing this same thing. EP34, brown to B, black to E, Brown/White to L. I have 12V going straight from B to L - could I have a bad flasher unit?
 

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