Does anyone else on here have an '82 XS400R?

[robindean]

Yup! Followed that clicking sound under the tank. I suppose I'll pop the tank for easier access.

I take some issue with the fact that it is mixed up with the wire snake under the backbone. My bike has a suspended engine and the top mounting brace limits access to some degree. When I peeked up from underneath to find the sound, I saw ONE white wiring fastener (those clunky plastic click type connectors).

Is that the clicker connection? I'll search google images but would love to have a better idea of what I should be looking for ... as I've already replaced the bulbs and the click sound is gone LOLOL. I suppose I can put them back

OH ... and will I need to solder any connections?

 

[XSLeo]

Could be, might not be, there are several thing under the tank.
No you shouldn' need to solder anything.
On the flasher there is a plastic body on the wires. The wires can be removed from the plastic. The metal ends on the wires slide in and lock in place. If you look closely at the plug you will see the rectangle the wires plug in. On one side of this rectangle is a small slot, if you slide a piece of wire down in there to release the lock so the wire slides right out.
Now this wire will plug right into your stock harness plug.
Your stock flasher is square.
If you go the www.yamaha-motor.com/sport you can access the parts fiche for your bike and see what it looks like and where it is.
This will help with other parts as well.
Leo

 

[robindean]

Okay.

So, now, you were suggesting (in another thread) that I remove the plastic connector to the new flasher. This leaves me with two bare wires.

With those two bare wires, am I grafting / soldering them or do they plug directly into the plastic fixture which connects the stock flasher?

Thanks for your patience.

 

[XSLeo]

No, the flat blade in the plastic comes out. Just as I described. Use a paper clip or other piece of wsire to release the lock so the blade slides right out.
No bare wires.
Look at the plastic body on the wires, you will see what I mean.
I tried to get a pic to show how to do it but my camera can't take very good close ups. Or I don't know how to.
Leo

 

[robindean]

My goodness ... the flasher is SO FREAKIN' DIFFICULT to access.

It's under the tank, inside of a fully enclosed chunk of Seca frame. If I were to really "go for it" I'd have to remove the top engine pins just to get a better view of how I could go about attempting to "tug it out" after disconnecting it through two annoyingly small access holes.

Is there another way? Example ... is there a way to run it inline via the wires that connect to the flasher's on-off switch?

I do have a more experienced friend who's willing to take a look on Tuesday. Until then, I have "on" signals that don't blink. Any ideas as to a different approach that doesn't involve a resistor?

 

[XSLeo]

To get LED's to flash you have to do one of two things, replace the stock flasher with one that flashes LED's or add resisters to get the stock flasher to flash the LED's.
Leo

 

[OleDoc]

yes,resistance is futile.i have always wanted to use that line

 

[robindean]

LOL. No resistors for me. I'll find a way to get it in there somehow (she said).

 

[OleDoc]

yeah thats what she said

 

[robindean]

@ XSLeo (and anyone who's attempting this) ...

They work! One question to follow at the bottom of this response (the lights strobe a little bit).

Everything went precisely as you said. The decision to install the flasher makes for a tedious process but the rewards are more than substantial.

Basicallly:

1) replace the bulbs
2) remove the tank
3) place a jack under the engine at the oil filter casing for simple, "parked" level support
4) remove the top engine bracing (looks like a chrome shield)
5) remove the wire housing that sits behind the engine bracing
6) remove the bracing that sits in the wire housing
7) unplug the stock flasher
8) remove the plastic shield from the new flasher's wiring
9) connect the red (or grey) on the new flasher to the solid brown
10) connect the black on the new flasher to the brown/white

11) TEST YOUR SIGNALS to see if they flash

12) replace/position your wires
13) replace the wire bracing
14) replace your wire housing
15) replace your engine bracing

All is good!

In regards to #15, there are some sensitivities there in regards to torque. In short, the bolts/rods which fit through the top are of less concern. They can be torqued to 75 lbs or more if desired.

The SMALLER bolts (non-rod) require care because the bolts are steel and the engine is aluminum. Only tighten them "as tightly as a Japanese factory worker can with a smaller than average socket wrench". If you screw this up, you'll crack or bore out the hole in the engine, NOT the screw ... and that's the worst possibility.

MY QUESTION: When the RPMs are low, the signals seem to "strobe quickly, then light up, then off ... repeat". Not a big deal but I wanted to mention that they initially strobe for a second at low RPMs. Does this happen for anyone else?

 

[robindean]

Alright '82 xs400r ... ers.

I'm getting some paint work done. Basically, I'm hoping to get the same stock paint job. Some touch up on the plastic + my new fairing.

My question: where do I find the color codes? There's a label with VIN on the front fork. Check this page out ... any info there what I need to order paint?

http://www.robindean.com/motorcycle/index.html

If you don't see it ... can any of you tell me where the paint codes are for this year/make/model?