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Igintion problem
- Thread starter Scorpio1963
- Start date
the connector goes to the on and off switch on the right hand side controlls,then it plugs into another connector inside the head light bucket.On the diagram it shows rw/r,b on the connector going to the switch,oppisite side has an extra wire not shown on the diagram thats black.
Also back to my other question about loss of spark would only the igniter casue this if the coils are good.or is there something else cause this.
Also back to my other question about loss of spark would only the igniter casue this if the coils are good.or is there something else cause this.
We have a TCI, the Orange wire goes straight to the TCI (other side uses Gray) Then 3 of the 7 wires in the TCI group is for the Pickup (the sensing unit to trigger the spark) Leaving the R/W line, and Black line for pathways of destruction? So from the Coils perspective the R/W wire can send a disabling current as well. The R/W line comes from the Off/Run/Off switch, to both coils, to safety relay, from the TCI to fuse.
The Black line touches everything else, to the TCI, nothing to the coils thou.
Once I get my 2nd coil, I will need to keep the voltage check on, and see if there is any arrant voltages? or double check the bad spot like you said.
The Black line touches everything else, to the TCI, nothing to the coils thou.
Once I get my 2nd coil, I will need to keep the voltage check on, and see if there is any arrant voltages? or double check the bad spot like you said.
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If I had the $ I just take to a shop I know and be done with it.
MrStubb
XS400 Addict
Had that album. It was a cover on A Pat Travers Band album I think it was Crash & Burn. The song in question is Born under a bad sign. Great album if you're into blues.
how much difference is there between xs 650 and xs400 wiring harness?Are they basicaly the same with just minor differences that with some slight modification I make work on my bike or not?
Right now, I am am going to redo the stator wires, and then when I put all the electrical in, I am not going to worry about the E-Start right away. I an not going to put the solenoid in? well may be I better, just not plugging in the starter. Power goes though the solenoid to the the wire harness.
I am wondering if my starter solenoid is shot? in the last week, I have priced them for $55 at MikeXS, to $40 from a catalog, which I should be able to get from my local Yamaha dealer. (no shipping and handling ((sometimes)))
After I can get it going, There is a chance I fried the relay or relays, so I will be looking at jumping the safety for the interim. the headlight circuit I can wait to test. (Waiting till I start driving)
So my hope is that I haven't fried both relays, and I will be able to use one of which on the safety till I can verify function.
Doesn't help I have 2 bolts broken off in the stator cover that I need to get out first/last I keep breaking the 5/64th drill bit.
I did buy a sparkplug spark detector from O'riellys auto for $15 bucks I got home and the head doesn't fit my plug cap. So I will drill a small hole, and take the screw off an old sparkplug, and put it in there.
I am wondering if my starter solenoid is shot? in the last week, I have priced them for $55 at MikeXS, to $40 from a catalog, which I should be able to get from my local Yamaha dealer. (no shipping and handling ((sometimes)))
After I can get it going, There is a chance I fried the relay or relays, so I will be looking at jumping the safety for the interim. the headlight circuit I can wait to test. (Waiting till I start driving)
So my hope is that I haven't fried both relays, and I will be able to use one of which on the safety till I can verify function.
Doesn't help I have 2 bolts broken off in the stator cover that I need to get out first/last I keep breaking the 5/64th drill bit.
I did buy a sparkplug spark detector from O'riellys auto for $15 bucks I got home and the head doesn't fit my plug cap. So I will drill a small hole, and take the screw off an old sparkplug, and put it in there.
Im thinking of removing my stator cover and check out the wires inside,Probaly nothing wrong but its the only thiong I haven't checked.
My turn signals when they working the bike had spark and fired up for a a minute with starting fluid.Since then the turn signals quit working and I have no spark.I don't get the relation between the two?I don't see anyway my igniter box could have just stopped working either.Today I removed the tci cover and inspected inside of there.Everything looks good.I have a lot of frayed wires at the couplers.Im trying to find a place to buy some 4 prong white connectors?The one which I believe comes from the stator has 3 white wires in not so good.I think for now my best bet is too make a basic harness which you gave me a diagram on how to make it.I just dread removing the ignition switch
My turn signals when they working the bike had spark and fired up for a a minute with starting fluid.Since then the turn signals quit working and I have no spark.I don't get the relation between the two?I don't see anyway my igniter box could have just stopped working either.Today I removed the tci cover and inspected inside of there.Everything looks good.I have a lot of frayed wires at the couplers.Im trying to find a place to buy some 4 prong white connectors?The one which I believe comes from the stator has 3 white wires in not so good.I think for now my best bet is too make a basic harness which you gave me a diagram on how to make it.I just dread removing the ignition switch
Anyone have a basic cost for the wire and materials to rewire one of our bikes?-Also did you color code the wires like the original or come up with yourmown color code system?
Thanks
Thanks
What would give you this idea and how can you tell?On mine I can jump the starter with mine Assuming its good
What would give you this idea and how can you tell?On mine I can jump the starter with mine Assuming its good
I don't know yet, but I am like you, taking it one step at a time. I have one more week to play with it, before I am going away for basically a month.
I figure last time I had it running, I couldn't count on the starter, but It kicked right over
So after redoing the wires, my white wires are hard, Inside the stator housing, I think I just will replace them, and coat them with spray paint enamel to insulate them better than what I did last time.
Then from there go up from there, Since there is no visible damage to the voltage regulator, and you can not offline test it, should I just spend the $20 bucks and get a new one, I probably will.
Battery, I just bought it last year from Fleet farm, I think I might take it back to have them check it see if its good. When I took it off the battery maintainer, looked like one cell was dry. When I was trying to start it, and it started, It was on the battery maintainer? Correlation? in 2012 when I was getting it ready for my first start up in almost 10 years, I was using the car battery to back up my attempts to start. (estart) Car was off)
Good thing my kids have alot of cereal in the house, I will be making a stator gasket with lucky charms this time
http://www.mikesxs.net/search.html?q=coupler
So a 3 space, a 4 space for the stator. What else are you looking at replacing?
The color code is all over this post, just take the Color wire diagram, an blow it up in segments that are easy for you to understand. I have parted out just about every item with the right wire color code. So finding wires with color stripes might be hard. I went with 16 guage when I last did this. you might be able to go one guage smaller if you wanted to. Go to Drewpies re-wire from the Tech section. print out his list, then in the space when you start to browse, you can make up your mind as far as color coding exceptions.
I did have a lose wire off my fuse block that I did solder on after i had it running, perhaps I didn't do a good job putting it back on.
How difficult is it to remove the ignition switch,I assume I need to remove the entire instrument cluster to remove it.
Another question is the or the ignition switch connected to the estart and rand side controls?
If I have power at the switch with key on,lights come on,oil switch comes on and not the lcutch switch wont come on can the switch still be bad?
Another question is the or the ignition switch connected to the estart and rand side controls?
If I have power at the switch with key on,lights come on,oil switch comes on and not the lcutch switch wont come on can the switch still be bad?
Ok I had a bit of breaK this evening,I was messing around with the relays and as put one in I heard that lciking sound they are supposed to make.The bike even tried to turnover a couple of time.It would only do this with the battery charger on.I tried jumping the starter solenoid from the two terminals nothing.Also before I started messing around with things that voice you hear in your head that tells you check something.I hear many voices so its hard to distinguish whos who and where they`re coming from.Anyways ignition fuse was burned out I changed itThen I hit the estart and solenoid is clicking trys to turn the starter over but then it quits.So what do you think is my problem within the solenoid?Also my clutch light doesn't come one and the switch is broke but the wires have to be twisted together for anything to happen?So another question is whats up with my clutch signal?Any ideas?
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If you have a charged up 12 volt car battery, leave that connected to the bike battery, if it is in a car/truck, don't leave the truck running. That will give you extra amps. But then you have time yourself for no more than 10 seconds on an attempt to start. or you will burn up your starter. Suspect dead battery, take to fleet farm and see if they will warrentee it, or if you can afford the AGM, its time to upgrade!
Very good catch, seems to be a sign of week battery. attach jumper cables to it. Car off.
Clutch signal? I can only think of the clutch signal going to the safety switch, which we covered with that really neat pic. The signal is only for a specific style of starting. Which i thought we covered. The safety switch is only going to let you hit the estart if the clutch is pulled. of if your kicking the cluctch cannot be pulled. Seems to me to be 2 more conditions its looking for. I ll see if I still have the posting pic. Okay, this is the enhanced, I have added color, and extra words, and corrected one or 2 things.
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The battery is good I did a voltage test also 12.86 volts.I don't get why it needs the extra umph to enguage the relay.Also according the diagram my bike has the neutral safety switch and the other relay.I only get the estart to enguage solenoid with 1 of them.With 2 nothing happens.Someone told on here told me I don't need the clutch switch so I tried unplugging to see if would make a difference.I find even though the light stopped working the 2 wires have to be connected Im getting another switch soon
Someone told on here told me I don't need the clutch switch so I tried unplugging to see if would make a difference.I find even though the light stopped working the 2 wires have to be connected Im getting another switch soon
I did unplug and leave it open nothing happened when I tried the estart.So I plugged back in without the wires twisted to gether,still nothing.So I twisted the 2 ends together that's when I had contact with the estart trying to work.
Chris since your bike is wired without the safety relays and neutral safety switch its different between your bike and mine.Still don't understand why the clutch switch light quit working or something in that circuit and the relays are causing it not to work.Im going to try some different relays later but after yesterdays trial and error I think the start solenoid is bad or one of the small wires in the back broke.Its hard to tell the po put black silicon all over the wires in the back of it like he was trying to keep something from shorting out maybe who knows
I`ll take it off later and post a pic.
Tobie forgot to answer your question.I want to replace the couplers going into relay switches and fix the plug that has 3 white wires coming from the stator I think.Anyways they are all 4 prong connectors.I know mikesxs has them but I refuse to pay their ridiculous shipping.So I have to find them elseware.
