Ok I hate to beat a dead horse, but I feel I should point out some safety issues with that artsy bikeefix monstrosity. The more I look at it the more it bugs me.
The big issue I have is that new builders, or people that want to learn to build a bike, look at these things and think that 'because i saw pretty pictures on a website, it must be good to do it that way'. 90% of the users on this site have no posts, so most come here and look for info and don't ask questions. So I feel it's important to point out the bad unsafe things. That last bike posted probably isn't complete, but they shouldn't go posting them until they are. Monkey see, monkey do.
The brake caliper on that bike is trash. Looks like they milled off the Aprilia logo at the last minute before the photo shoot. Hence why it's painted red except for the spot that just got shaved off. The area that they cut was already thin. Engineers know what they are doing when they design cast parts. There is a minimum safe thickness for the wall to hold the pressure of the brake system, and they also have a maximum thickness to decrease porosity. They also don't machine it after the casting, because if you do you will bring out that porosity on the thin material. Well I can guarantee that that spot is now buggered, and will either fail under hard braking, or it already leaks, and that would explain why they couldn't toss more paint on that spot(and actually, if you look at the main sites higher res photos, you can see what looks like seepage!). For you budding builders out there, do it the right way- if you don't want the logo, use filler and sand it down flat. Problem solved with no adverse effects.
They went stupid on the front axle/spindle. It's hard to tell why they did what they did, but the bottom line is that it's wrong. Don't eliminate the bolt on the axle. It needs the force from the bolt to work properly. You cannot rely on the fork pinch bolts alone. Also, on those forks, proper assembly requires a certain procedure, and the axle bolts is an important part of the equation before tightening the pinch bolts.
DO NOT OMIT THE TOP STEM BOLT!!!!!! It is an important part of the complete front end. The nut right over the bearings is there for the preload on them. It is not meant to hold everything together. That's what the top bolt is for. Sure the forks will hold together by just the yoke pinch bolts, but the forces on the front suspension and stem are properly distributed via that stem bolt connection. Something will give, and it will most likely be when you are in a turn, under brakes, and the front suspension is under the most force it will ever see.
They dug themselves into a hole with that big rear wheel, and honestly I don't see anything they can do about getting the clutch to work. The only option they will have is to rig up a hydraulic piston on the outside of the cover, or they will probably end up not using that rear wheel and tire when/if it actually sees the road. I have a very wide rear tire, but it's nowhere near as wide as that one they used. My chain is offset as far as it can be to clear the tire and the clutch cable, while still being aligned. Anything further left than what I have would rub the clutch cable where it enters the side cover. You don't need that wide of a tire folks, the rear wheel only sees 30 hp or so. And that tire to fender clearance, yuck. That tire will rub, no doubt about it. You can see that they used huge bump stops on the shafts to try and limit travel, but that rubber can compress to paper thin under certain loads. Fairly unsafe. They'll find out the hard way.
As mentioned already that rear brake is not setup right. Not that we use it all that often, but the rear is a good emergency brake. The arm being at that angle will affect the force you can apply to it.
Another very unsafe thing is the rear sprocket. As it is in the pictures, it has nothing preventing the sprocket from moving laterally. The snap ring and shim are what keeps the sprocket in place, left to right. The 4 bolt with the large nuts, the rubber inserts, are simply that- inserts. They are only there to transfer the rotational force, the torque, to the rear wheel. They are not made to hold the sprocket on. I get why some people may think they would be, as if you try to remove them it seems impossible. But they are only held in place by years of galvanic corrosion between the aluminum hub and steel inserts. If you ever grab new ones, you'll find out that they are just a slip fit. If they were to go ride that bike how they have it setup, that sprocket WILL come off. A broken chain is bad enough on a leg/ankle. Imagine what a piece of spiked steel is going to do coming off at 6,000 rpms.
Be safe guys.