HID headlight conversion

ThePsuedoMonkey

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The conversion to HID is very simple. You have a few options, but at its core it boils down to two things: the new bulb and the ballast/controller. The most common bulbs are 35W singles, but these are designed for older cage vehicles. You want to make sure the one you get has a low and high setting, so either a bi-lev HID (usually 35/55W) or a HID/halogen composite. If you buy the ballast separate from the bulb, be warned that most are 35W unless specified otherwise. The ballast is wired for the standard auto bulb sockets (double probe), but the bulbs usually have the adapter for our triple blade connector. If you already upgraded to a halogen, then you just need to grab a bulb that fits the socket to your headlight. If you still have a sealed beam then you need to decide if you want to rig up that to hold the new bulb or if you want to do it the right way and get an enclosure/reflector. I rigged up a 5" off-road enclosure to fit mine a while back. Now the only option left is what color the bulb should be. The rating system for the bulb color is black-body radiation, essentially the color of light emitted by something is determined by its temperature. Since the temperature of the sun's surface is ~5775K, a 5000K or 6000K bulb will get you closest to natural sunlight. If you want something more blue/violet you can pick up to 15000K, or if you want more yellowish you can go down to 3000K.

I moseyed over to ebay and grabbed a 35W ballast IMG_20120507_161300.jpg and a composite HID/halogen bulb IMG_20120507_161250.jpg this way I still have a headlight if the ballast fails while riding (I'm a cheapskate). Between them, I only spent ~20 bucks. I removed the rubber sheath on the wires, since it was unnecessary and that gives a little more leeway in where you can mount the ballast. There isn't anything tricky about fitting the bulb itself, even with both bulb types my H4 fit easily into the socket. The wires are routed like everything else, down to where I've chosen to mount the ballast. I found an unused mounting hole in the frame near the tank; pretty much the perfect location.
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I'm not sure how the dual HID bulbs work out, but I think you might end up running a ballast for each setting. The ballast itself has a little bit of girth to it, maybe about half a kilo, so that's the trade off for better light and reduced power consumption.
 

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Do you have a projector lens? Without a projector lens HID conversions lack a proper cut off and will just blind all oncoming traffic. It's just like riding around with your high beams on all the time, only even brighter.
 
interesting conversion.

I avoid riding in the dark if I can, as the standard headlamp is atrocious. In fact I ride with main beam on all the time as no-one gets dazzled.

The projectors on my tracker are good (halogen 35w) and get hot to touch but they are a yellow light and still cut through.
 
ok guys since 'm in the market for a new headlight, do you think it would be the way to go? What would i need to get?
 
Yeah. i get that i'll need a ballast and bulb but i don't really have much of a headlight left. Should i just get a sealed light and call it a day? or is there something i can get for a little more money that would be a better option? (i'm not a opposed to spending a little more if it is worth it)
 

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Ideally you want to retrofit one of these in your headlamp, or buy a lamp with one already installed.

HID-Bi-Xenon-Projector-Lens-Light.jpg
 
Do you have a projector lens? Without a projector lens HID conversions lack a proper cut off and will just blind all oncoming traffic. It's just like riding around with your high beams on all the time, only even brighter.

This. Your light output will be so scattered that usable light on the road is even less than with your stock halogen. Not to mention you're going to piss off every oncoming vehicle haha.
 
^^ Hard to tell from the description if it includes a ballast/ignitor. But otherwise it lookes complete. I'd recommend the 4300k color. 6000k is very blue and 8000k is purple.

Bi-xenon's work by moving the cut-off shield to raise the cut-off for high beams. I'm assuming as this is advertised as a bi-xenon that that's how this one works. It's sometimes difficult to integrate that feature into halogen systems. For instance, I installed bi-xenon HID projects in my Subaru WRX, which uses a ground-switched high-beam system. Had to built an entirely seperate circuit and relay to actuate the cut-off motor.
 
I must have missed the part about the projector/lens. And of course they are more expensive than the rest of the system. :mad: This should be interesting...
 
If you're handy you can perhaps salvage one from a cracked car headlight or something. There is probably a chinese projector that can be had relatively cheaply.
 
Petei, you're going to need a bracket for that one, and it will likely be pretty small. And I can't see how it will mount, and to top it all off, the headlight housing hides all your wiring - that unit doesn't look like it will do that for you...

Might be more work than it's worth...
 
Oh i already realized that, not going to do it. Thanks for the heads up, i just like considering all the different options.

Partsnmore is out of sealed 7" lamps (they say they will be getting more this week). i'm just getting antsy. and while i've been waiting for the lamp, the 12$ mounts went out of stock so know I have to get the 30$ ones which i will then have to drill.

I really want to get this done before the long week end.
 
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