Now, what is the normal drop in rpm at idle with the headlight on? i have led lights on all other lights, but even with the fix it drops about 200rpm. with the new grounding wire, it seemed like i was able to idle much lower with the headlight on. But i also still noticed a slightly weaker spark when i'm riding, feels almost like i'm riding my bike with an extra 50 pounds.
I am with dave, There is an extension for the HID light kit, so if your ballast, is not close enough. All this chat about headlight on or off, leads me to think you have replaced a relay, that you probably needed. The original wiring sends power straight from the stator, to the headlight via a relay. The wrong relay there will prevent the un-adulterated power from attending your headlight. (even thou its only 35 watts, it was designed to get 55/60 watts to the headlights.)
On/off switch? did you put one in?
When your examining the wires for fraying, include bending them to feel for crackling. you will hear the crackling/feel it. if there is a bad segment, it will be just below the rear of the engine, where the wire goes straight up. the Wire next to the connector, you can bend it, all day long, and never fear it from breaking, the segment under the engine, may be frayed, (not pictured) and feel tight/crackly.
Your stator looked fine from what I can see. my experience with that segment, it was easier to remove the connector to pull the wire down, and out of the back/rear of the motor, so you can maybe replace that segment.
Solve the answers? is it the original relay? (2 relays, one relay will have the white wire going to it, for Head light power) other one will have the blue or yellow for the safety check's for starting the bike. (i might be wrong since I didn't reference the diagram.)
When you say your adj 2.75 on the carb, you do mean the Pilot screws right? top front of the carb? (closest to the engine?)
(my thoughts)
wrong relay.
bad wire is still possible, because I am not sure you went far enough to the rear, for inspection purposes
by default our website strongly recommends from the bench tuneup positions, the pilots screws should be left at 3 turns out.
Since I don't hear you mentioning it, I assume you put in the Metric bike LED conversion wires so that the turn signals will work? (other wise you could ground with those, and they are in the headlight bucket already)
Its hard to know what a weaker spark means, unless you can validate with a spark measuring device. Lot of us will tune the pilot jets based on spark plug characteristics. White, too hot, black and suety too rich. you have to be care full not to pull the plugs out and ruin the threads, (look it up on here, lots of stories) Depending on your local Yamaha dealer, you may be able to bring your coils in to their shop, and get them tested them out. for a small fee they can do anything. Mine said one was too good. I think they said the got zapped by it. I think I remember one of them shouting out when it zapped.
