Clutch Adjustment Question

Sesty

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Planning to adjust my clutch this week, engine doesn't engage until the lever is released 99% of the way out. Hoping its not a stretched cable and just out of adjustment.

The manual says 1. Break the locknut loose then 2. Tighten the screw down lightly than back out a bit and 3. Tighten the locknut backdown 4. Adjust the free play at the lever.

Before breaking loose the lock nut, do I have to loosen the locking wheel on the bars first? or can the adjustment be done down by the engine without messing with the bar end?

Anyone know if there is a torque spec for the locknut?

thanks!
 
Turn in the adjuster at the lever all the way first. Then adjust at the engine for correct clearance, then adjust at the lever. Don't over tighten the lock nut, just snug is fine.
 
thanks Dave!

loosen the locking spindle and then turning the adjuster all the way down to the perch correct?
 
Well this got annoying fast...

Screwed the cable adjuster all the way to the perch, broke loose the lock nut and tightened the screw down until some resistance was felt, and tightened the nut. EASY, thought i was done! Went to adjust at lever and realized there was too much slack cause the cable had popped out of the actuator.

The cable seems to still be in decent shape, but i could not for the life of me get the sprocket cover bolts to break loose. Using a tiny Allen wrench was not helping either.

:mad:Anyone have an tips on breaking these loose? maybe an impact driver i guess. Also does anyone know where to get replacement bolts? i have a feeling the ones in there may get pretty chewed up.:doh:
 

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Yeah that happened to me every time until I held the lever in while breaking loose the nut. I think I used a little Allen wrench and tapped it with a hammer after a little wd40.
 
Here in Minnesota, my favorite store, (Menards) had a 4mm, 5mm allen attachment for my ratchet, with extention. (everyones got one right?) then I got the monster size metric all in one, which is perfect for times when you need more torque. Hmmm, maybe that why I am having Helicoils put into my stator? Noped can't be ;) I had my stator housing powder coated, and I suspect the paint material got into the threads, and when I tried to put bolts, in, the bolts got locked into place. Needless to say, I know have a tap to clean out the 4mm screws holes.
 
Yeah that happened to me every time until I held the lever in while breaking loose the nut. I think I used a little Allen wrench and tapped it with a hammer after a little wd40.

i had the handle held in and the cable still jumped out :(

Tobie i did see your thread, good idea on the allen ratchet. PB Blaster isn't much use since the threads are way at the end of the bolt.

I am assuming putting the cable back on is pretty straight forward once the cover is off?

plan on tackling this sunday, and installing new starter button again.... and going to run clean the carbs again.
 
Tobie i did see your thread, good idea on the allen ratchet. PB Blaster isn't much use since the threads are way at the end of the bolt.

I am assuming putting the cable back on is pretty straight forward once the cover is off?

My issue then was the inside lining of the cable was ratcheting into the handlebar levers. So no matter how much pb blaster I used, it didn't help. Once I got the gray liner out of my way, and ordered a new cable, everything was all right. Is that your pic I seen with the broken adj screw?

Once you pull off the drive chain sprocket cover, the piece is just a metal cage, that (should be) that you just put back into the cage, and squeeze the door shut, behind the cable end piece.

Pay attention to the spring to clutch throughout. Sometimes with the amount of dirt, that gets in there, the hole that the spring goes into, will show signs of ageing. I used JB weld to fill the hole created by 20 + years of riding.

The link I had was suggesting a Deepwell socket 12mm, and a Philips screwdriver. with the pic for extra value credit.
 
On the adjuster screw in the sid4e cover, I like to back the screw out a few turns, then spin it in/out a bit to get a good feel for how it turns. Now as you slowly turn the screw in you have better chance of telling just when the resistance increase is felt.
This increase indicates you have removed all the free play between the adjuster screw and pressure plate. You now need to add back in a bit of free play. My books call for 1/4 turn out. I like a bit less, I use the lock nut. As you turn the screw the nut turns, I use one flat of the nut. This is 1/6 turn. Now while holding the screw snug down the lock nut.
Now go back and adjust the lever end for about 1/4 inch freeplay.
Leo
 
I went though a bunch of threads, I could not remember if that was your pic, with the broken hand clutch with the adj snaped at the threads. (lucky you)

Actually with everything that does go wrong, that is an easy fix :D
 
bottom bolt on the cover totally rounded off...
its always the last one that strips!

You know, if you haven't already broken it off. Drill the head off, then once you get the cover off. you can use a vise grips to get the rest fo the bolt. Does that make sense?
 
i was thinking that if i can't get at it with a screwdriver. Im lucky enough to have a great yamaha dealer less than 2 miles away who has a new hardware set waiting for me. beginning to see why xschris is going all Titanium
 
UPDATE

:thumbsup:got the bolt out and picked up a new set of hardware from the local Yamaha dealer, most of the old ones were slightly stripping. under the cover was verrry dirty. Some WD-40, then diluted Simple Green, and a rag got enough of the gunk out.
 

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