Load of balls (bearings)

Pork Chop

Pork Chop

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I don't know what the exchange rate is, but that head bearing conversion goes for around $40-$45 U.S. plus shipping, so if that's around the same price, I'd say that is the neighborhood of the right price. Can't help you on the swing arm bearing issue, but I may do it over the winter so I'll be watching this thread.
 
I beleive those are the exact ones I purchased. I'm in canada and it worked out good for me price wise or I would have went somewhere else. Haven't installed them yet but they came on time even with a postal strike here.

As for the swing arm bushings yes they are the same on the 650 . I bought mine from sirius consolidated you may want to check there to see if they are cheaper I can't remember what I paid. Also haven't installed them yet I'm using the old bushings to mock up my project. I did mic them though and I think you will need a press and most likely will have to freeze the bushing and heat the swing arm gently for an easy install. The ones I have do have the half thread in the bore for grease make sure you have that in whatever you buy.

Shaun
 
On the swingarm bushings, TC Bro's has the best price.
On the steering head bearings. Great at any cost.
Leo
 
One thing I forgot. The tapered roller bearing races can be installed with a length of All Thread rod. 1/2 inch size is good. Some nuts and washers just slightly smaller than the OD of the races. The old ball bearing races can be used too.
The same set up installs the swing arm bushings too.
Leo
 
I ordered the bushings from TC Bros - very easy to deal with and getting them shipped to Australia. Exchange rate is pretty good at the moment with the Aussie$ being stronger than the US$. I got the tapered head bearings from Fleabay.

Thanks for the suggestions on installation - will be picking up some all thread rod next week.
 
If you need help installing the taper bearings check on here; I think most of us had to re-use the stock bearing seals because the new ones don't fit. So, don't throw your old ones away just yet :)
 
I had a set of All Balls tapered bearings, and decided that I was better off using the tapered bearings on the bottom and the original ball bearings in the top. That way I was able to tighten the "turreted nut" more than I was able to using both tapered bearings. In my opinion the better choice would be to replace any damaged / worn aball bearings with new replacement ball bearings. I will not buy any tapered replacement bearings again.

At the very least.... When taking the old bearings out, be careful to save all the parts, in case you, like me decide the ball bearings fitted much better.
 
They did not allow me to tighten the "turreted nut beyond 2-3 threads, and in my opinion it was not as good as using the ball bearings that allowed the same original spacing. So I cleaned and re-used the old ball bearing in the top triple and the tapered bearing on the bottom triple. The seal worked fine on the bottom... The top did not need a seal or at least had none when i installed it.
 
Did you use the original seals on the new taper bearings? I you don't re-use your old seals they don't fit right. The ones that come with the tapered bearings don't fit.
 
I have done this swap several times and never had that problem. Had plenty of threads.
The only thing I can think that would cause that was you didn't get all the old parts out.
If you left the ball race on the stem or in the frame so the taper races weren't fully seated. Maybe.
Leo
 
Mine fitted fine on the lower tapered bearing... I did not use any seals on the top ball bearing... None were installed when I took it out. The top ball bearing does not need a seal... the race itself is acting as its own seal. No dirt can get around the race...
 
Well, I am not sure what went wrong then. Maybe you didn't put the new race in far enough or something. I have the all balls kit too and it fits great with plenty of threads; I wouldn't ride the bike if it didn't hook up correctly.
 
I took out the triple tree completely. I installed the lower seal then the tapered bearing. I installed the lower race into the frame, after removing the old bearings, then put it back together. The top bearing I used the ball bearings and all fitted fine. Works great and has no problems.. The lower bearing needs a seal as the bearing cage exposes the bearings to any dirt from the bottom. The upper bearing has no exposed bearings and originally my bike had no seal on both the upper and lower. It still has no upper seal. works fine. From now on I will probably just buy lower bearings directly from the bearing distributors, and make a rubber gasket from a tire tube... Rebuild the top bearings with the extra balls from the lower... and I think I can make do for 10 bucks rather than 40.
 
I still think you left an old race on the stem or in the neck.
If you find an off the shelf bearing and race that fits on the stem and in the frame you will accomplish something none have done before. Some have spent weeks searching for them.
The bearing can be found but the frame need a specific race to fit. No off the shelf stuff there. The only way to get the races are to get the sets.
Leo
 
Well I have in my hand the old lower ball bearing set with 19 balls and two races, the new upper tapered bearing that I did not install, and a seal and race that i did not install. I assure you I sandblasted and cleaned and painted the triple trees and there are no "races" left inside.
I agree the races supplied are non standard and I also have misgivings regarding the races.. they are too thin for the load required. I am surprised more have not been shattered or broken. I will prefer to reuse the ball bearings and clean and buy replacement ball bearings. I did not care too much for the quality of the tapered bearings. I think they are made in the Hunk-a-dung province in China.
Obviously your mileage may vary.

Mike...
 
Ok, I am sorry you had a bad experience with them. I just want to make sure everyone knows that they do fit just fine if you use the oem seals with them.

I have also ridden hard on these bearings for thousands of miles; I push this bike hard and they perform beautifully. I've never heard of one breaking.

You said your bike originally had no oem seals? If you didn't have oem seals you must have used the supplied seal(s); that was your problem.
 

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